Aconcagua - Polish Glacier Traverse (PGT)

20 days/19 nights: Start Santiago or Mendoza (day 1) End Santiago or Mendoza (day 20).

Aconcagua Trek Polish Glacier Traverse (PGT)

This 20 day tailor made Aconcagua trekking and climbing expedition takes us to the summit (6959 m) of the highest peak in South America via the Polish Glacier Traverse, ascending alongside the prominent glacier on the northeast slope of the mountain.

Cerro Aconcagua’s extreme altitude makes it physically a very strenuous undertaking. This is added to by severe climatic conditions; periodically, its upper slopes are subjected to 150kph winds and temperatures of -30°C. Essential, therefore, are both a high level of physical preparation and appropriate high mountain clothing of suitable quality (see kit list).

This is a slightly longer variation of our group Polish Traverse trip. Experience in the use of crampons and ice axe and crossing crevasses is a requirement for this route.

The most stable weather conditions are between mid- December and the end of January.

[N.B. On Aconcagua, mules ferry most kit to and from base camp. Above this point, group members and guides carry their own equipment up and down the mountain, as well as a share of food and equipment (the average load above base camp is typically 17 to 25kg). On Aconcagua, we normally use a ratio of 1 guide to every 3 or 4 clients, since the better the ratio, the greater the chance of summit success for all].

Day 1

Join the tour in Santiago or Mendoza, where you will be met at the airport. If Santiago, the capital of Chile, and a buzzing cultural city we will then travel onwards to Mendoza in Argentina. We leave Santiago, heading north then east on the Libertadores Highway. The drive across the Andes to Argentina takes us through some awesome high-mountain scenery and, weather permitting, we get a brief sighting of Aconcagua. We should reach the city of Mendoza after about 8 or 9 hours. Either this evening or tomorrow morning, we’ll sort out our Aconcagua climbing permits. In the evening, we hold a briefing meeting. (1 night hotel)

Day 2

Mendoza to Penitente.

We travel by bus back up to the border with Chile and the small town of Penitente (2,400m) where we meet up with our mules and drivers.

Day 3

Penitente to Pampa de Lenas.

We walk for 4 hours to our next camp (2,700m).

Day 4

Pampa de Lenas to Casa de Piedras.

We cross a bridge 500 metres upstream from the camp, heading up the east side of the valley on a good and easily followed path to Casa de Piedra (3,200m), our next camp. Here the Relinchos valley joins the main valley. 8 hrs walk approx.

Day 5

Casa de Piedras to Plaza Argentina.

From Casa de Piedra, we cross the Rio de las Vacas and continue walking up the Relinchos valley on a good but steep path crossing the Relinchos river twice and following the wide valley to Plaza Argentina, 8 hrs walk approx. to Plaza Argentina our base camp amongst the moraines of the Relinchos Glacier (4,200 mts).

Day 6

Rest day.

Day 7

Carry to Camp 1, return to Plaza Argentina.

We carry a part of our equipment up to the next camp at 5,100m.

Day 8

Move to Camp 1.

Day 9

Carry to Camp 2, return to Camp 1.

We carry a part of our equipment up to the next camp at 5,600m.

Day 10

Move to Camp 2.

[Note: The name Aconcagua appears to have one of two origins. It either derives from the Quechua ‘Ackon Cahuac’, meaning ‘Sentinel of Stone’, or from the Mapuche ‘Aconca Hue’, applied to the river, and meaning ‘Comes from the Other Side’.

The first ascent of Cerro Aconcagua was made in 1897 by the Swiss climber, Mathias Zurbriggen, a member of a British Expedition led by Edward Fitz Gerald].

Day 11

Camp 2 to Camp 3.

We continue to our next camp at 5,900m. This camp is right at the base of some cliffs below the Polish Glacier.

Day 12

Rest day

Day 13

Camp 3 to Camp 4