Cerro Aconcagua (6959
metres) is the highest summit in the western hemisphere. It lies
approximately 70° west and 32° south, just within Argentina but only
12 kilometres from the border with Chile.
Our 17-day expedition
begins in Mendoza, Argentina and then the
Aconcagua expedition follows the "normal" route: up the Horcones
Valley, around the western flank of the mountain to Plaza de Mulas
base camp, and up its north west ridge to Nido de Condores. From
here we proceed to Berlin Camp before attempting to summit.
This expedition is
physically strenuous and a great challenge, with high altitudes and
extreme weather conditions making the going tough. However, it is
not technically demanding and is suitable for most adventurous
people with experience of trekking and camping in remote mountain
areas, as well as a good level of physical fitness. On Aconcagua
mules are used to transport food and climbing equipment in to (and
to take rubbish out from) the Plaza de Mulas base camp. Group members and guides carry just a day sack to Base Camp, with mules carrying everything else. However, above Base Camp you carry all of your own equipment in a large backpack up and down the
mountain. Porters available at extra cost. We normally use a ratio of 1 guide to 3 or 4 clients on
Aconcagua as the better the ratio the higher the chances of summit
success for all. Group size maximum of 12 - usually around 6 clients and two guides.
Note: For this
programme, experience in the use of crampons and ice axe is not a
requirement.
Joining the tour
On booking, you will be
sent the following information: name and address of Mendoza, and
time of rendezvous with guide.
Itinerary details
Note: If circumstances
dictate, certain details, such as overnight stops, may vary from
those shown in the day-by-day itinerary below.
Day 1 Join the tour in
Mendoza. Meet for a
briefing meeting. (1 night hotel)
Day 2 From the hotel, our van will take us to a small town on the way to the start of our expeditions. Penitentes (2.700 mts.). Here we organize mule loads, and spend the night.
Day 3After one night in Penitentes, we’ll drive towards Chile, to the
starting point of our trek, Puente del Inca (2,720m). We leave our
heavy kit for the mules to carry and set off for our first camp at
Confluencia (3 hours, 3300m). A short hike through the inspiring
landscapes will bring us to this strategically placed camp. There is
a good view from here of the south face of Aconcagua. There is a
Park office and Red Cross post here also.
Mules depart from Puente de Inca and you’ll have access to your kit at Confluencia. You only need to carry a day backpack for the first few days.
Day 4
We’ve included this day in order to aid acclimatization. Climbing up high and then returning to lower altitude helps your body to get used to the altitude. We’ll trek for about 5 hours until we arrive Plaza Francia, base camp of the impressive Aconcagua south wall. From here Aconcagua, the Stone Sentinel, appears more magnificent and intimidating than ever. We can see the entire South face. This is one of the most dramatic spots of the expedition with a breathtaking first view of Aconcagua that you will never forget.
Day 5 Confluencia to
Plaza de Mulas. Early next morning we begin our trek to Plaza de
Mulas, base camp for Aconcagua (6 hours, 4,300m). The trek route
goes up the Horcones valley. Towering, mineral-rich mountains
provide a spectacular backdrop as we climb. There may be some small
rivers to cross on the way, so be prepared to get your feet wet.
There is a hostel at base camp, and a clinic and helicopter landing
pad (for evacuating injured and ill climbers). Plaza de Mulas is
located on the moraine at the foot of the Horcones Glacier. (Camp)
[Note: This is the highest point to which the mules go. From here we
carry our own equipment with the help of porters (who carry the tents) as we proceed up the mountain]
[Note: There are three
buffer days available during this trek to allow for acclimatisation
and poor weather. Note also that the estimate of daily hours walked
provides a guide only].
Day 6, 7, 8 Plaza de Mulas,
acclimatisation walk. We take it easy today, allowing further
acclimatisation and giving us a chance to explore the area. The
glacier near base camp provides plenty of opportunity for practising
crampon and ice-axe use. (Camp)
Day 9 Plaza de Mulas to
Nido de Condores. Today we continue our ascent, as far as our next
camp at Camp Canada or Nido de Condores (5 hours, 5,200m). This is a superbly
located high altitude camp, with 360 degree views of the surrounding
high Andes of Chile and Argentina. (Camp)
Day 10 Nido de Condores,
acclimatisation walk. We will do a short acclimatisation hike up to
Berlin Camp and back (2-3 hours, 5,850m) today. Other than that we
take it easy in preparation for our attempt on the summit. We have
three days in which to attempt this final ascent. (Camp)
Day 11 To Berlin Camp. We
will move up to camp at Berlin ready for our summit attempt
tomorrow. (Camp)
Above 6400 metres hard
snow is sometimes encountered (varies from year to year). It is when
you encounter these conditions that the crampons (both step-in or
strap-on are OK, depending on boot type & personal preference) and
ice axe (walking axe - 60-75 cm long) come into their own.
Snow-covered areas tend to be short and intermittent (maybe 150
metres of crampon-wearing at a time) and gradients are typically
around 30 degrees. Fixed ropes are not used, and you will rarely be
roped up. If at any stage you are very tired or unsure of your
footing, a guide may short-rope you (ropes are provided by us). The
final 200m of ascent to the summit is on loose scree and is very
tiring but not in itself dangerous. Crampons and ice axe may only be
used for one day on Aconcagua.
Day 12 Summit day. We
begin our climb very early, aiming to reach the summit by noon
approximately. The summit (6959m) is reached after some 8-10 hours&rsquo
ascent from Berlin Camp. The south face (3,000 m) is directly below.
The last 200 meters of the climb are extremely strenuous because of
loose scree and strong winds. We will carry crampons with us in case
there is hard snow on this section. Camp at Nido de Condores. (Camp)
Note: The whole ascent is
non-technical. The main difficulties are caused by altitude and,
potentially, acute meteorological conditions. We will be very
prudent in this regard. Certain signs (e.g. the presence of
lenticular clouds, denoting strong winds and changing conditions)
could mean abandoning ascent or turning back. There may be a variety
of points of view within a group, but the guides' decisions are
always final.
Day 13/14 Summit Days.
These are buffer days, to allow for acclimatisation and poor
weather. (Camp)
Day 15 Return to Base Camp.
Day 16 Trek out. Return to Mendoza
by bus. (1 night hotel)
Day 17 Tour ends
Mendoza.
Practical information
From your arrival in Mendoza on day one until departing Mendoza on
day 17, an English-speaking guide will be on hand to provide
information and iron out any problems. While trekking and climbing
you will be accompanied by mountain guides. Typically, our ratio is
one guide to 3 or 4 clients on Aconcagua, as the better the ratio
the higher the chances of summit success for all. On Aconcagua mules
are used to transport food and climbing equipment to Plaza de Mulas
base camp, but beyond here group members and guides carry their own
equipment, as well as some of the communal camping gear and food, up
and down the mountain. Obviously, a good level of fitness is
necessary.
You may also be called
upon to assist guides in meal preparation. In the mountains, we camp
using two-person mountain tents. In towns we use clean, comfortable
hostels.
Fitness and experience To
get the most out of this expedition you should be in very good
physical condition. Aconcagua is a long and tiring climb.
Grading the fitness level required for this expedition is a
subjective matter, but we can safely classify it as very strenuous.
We will walk approximately five to eight hours per day (occasionally
more), at times carrying personal luggage, plus some camping
equipment, at high altitudes. The two climbs involve several ascents
and descents (often long and steep). They also involve short periods
on snow and ice. Previous experience of hill walking and camping in
remote areas is recommended for this expedition. While experience in
winter walking and the use of crampons would be beneficial, it is
not a requirement. A grounding in the use of equipment is provided.
Altitude: This is a major
factor on this itinerary. Aconcagua is a big mountain and demands
respect. We have been careful to build in plenty of time for
acclimatisation when putting together the trip. Our guides are
experienced high altitude mountaineers, with an in-depth knowledge
of the potential dangers inherent in high altitude trekking.
Check our Books and Maps section where you will find a range of literature to help you get the most out of your South American adventure.
Climate This itinerary takes place within a narrow band of latitudes (32° to 34° south), but covers a very wide range of altitudes. It also traverses many geographic and climatic zones, from the sun-baked streets of Santiago and Mendoza (both just a few hundred metres above sea level) to Cerro Aconcagua (6,959 metres), on whose upper slopes extreme cold and winds are the norm. (N.B. All CA departures coincide with the southern hemisphere summer. Text below refers to this season).
The Andes: Much of this itinerary takes place above 4,000 metres, and extended periods are spent above 5,000m.
Climatic conditions in the Central High Andes of Chile and Argentina usually originate in the Pacific Ocean anticyclone. The humid westerly air currents that it sends inland collide with the Andes and, from time to time, bring severe conditions. Cerro Aconcagua, due to its great altitude and bulk, is especially susceptible, and periodically its upper slopes (above 5,200m) get buffeted by 150kph winds. Such conditions will often create a vast lenticular cloud above the summit. Even when the conditions at Plaza de Mulas camp (4,200m) appear fine and windless, the presence of this cloud formation signifies strong winds, extreme cold and snowstorms high on the mountain. It is also a sign that the upper mountain should be abandoned.
Summer temperatures of minus 30°C high on Aconcagua are not unusual. Just before dawn at our high camps in-tent temperatures commonly reach minus 15 or minus 20°C, and near the summit, wind chill can lower temperatures to minus 40°C. Very high up on Aconcagua, temperatures never get very high. Even at base camp (4,200m), rare southerly winds sometimes bring temperatures of minus 18°C. Severe electrical storms are another (occasional) summer phenomenon, and should not be underestimated.
Nevertheless, summer days and nights on Aconcagua can also be relatively tame. On still days at noon, it might be possible to hang around base camp in a bathing suit! On particularly benign, windless days, it is sometimes feasible to stand on Aconcagua’s summit at noon wearing only a few layers. The fickle - and often localised - nature of Aconcagua’s climate, means nothing should be taken for granted. Frostbite and hypothermia are risks for the under-equipped mountaineer; it is important to pack for the worst conditions.
On the lower slopes of Aconcagua conditions are less extreme and unpredictable, but nevertheless prone to fickleness. Below 4,200m, afternoons are generally warm with a lot of sunshine. On Aconcagua, the sun is extremely strong and burns very quickly. At lower camps on Aconcagua (around 3,300m) days are warm to hot and nights, cool to cold. At base camp, Aconcagua (around 4,200m) expect warm days and freezing nights. Note that at altitude, temperatures vary sharply between sun and shade and between sheltered and exposed ground. Also with height gain and loss.
Santiago and Mendoza : Climatic conditions in these cities (visited before, between and after expeditions) are very different to those in the high Andes. Summer temperatures in these cities are usually very warm or hot (expect lows of 17 and highs of 35°C). Here, lightweight summer clothing is ideal.
Visas British citizens visiting Chile and Argentina currently require no visa. Your passport must be valid for at least six months after the date of travel. Non-British passport holders should check their visa requirements with their Chilean and Argentine Consulate. All requirements are subject to change and should be confirmed before departure.
Personal Expenditure For this expedition, we recommend you carry your funds in US dollars cash (in mixed-denomination, unmarked and undamaged bank notes) and US dollar travellers’ cheques (Note: It can be difficult to change outside banking hours and typically incur a 3-5% commission). An ATM cash card is very handy, with many hole-in-the-wall machines available in Santiago & Mendoza. A credit card is useful to bring as back-up.
The cost of the tour includes all meals while on expedition. You will need money to cover: Aconcagua climbing permit (US$200 mid season / US$ 300 high season), other meals, snacks and drinks (approximately the same price as Europe), tipping, any equipment hire, airport taxes ($25 international), any extra nights in hotels in case of an early return to the city, any optional excursions and any other personal expenditure (e.g. laundry, gifts etc).
Flights We can arrange (or assist with) your flight to Santiago/Mendoza at competitive rates through our ATOL-bonded agency. Approximate prices are shown on the Dates and Prices sheet sent with the brochure.
Insurance Your insurance policy must cover you against medical expenses and repatriation. Please ensure it covers all activities you will be participating in. We ask that you send us a copy of your policy as soon as possible after booking.
Visas: British citizens
visiting Chile and Argentina currently require no visa. You must
have a passport valid for at least six months after the date of
travel. Non-British passport holders should check their visa
requirements with the Chilean and Argentinean Embassy. All
requirements are subject to change and should be confirmed before
departure.
Vaccinations: Please
check with your doctor or travel clinic for latest advice as
requirements are subject to change.
Personal expenses: We
recommend you carry funds in US dollars cash (mixed denomination,
unmarked and undamaged bank notes) and US dollar travellers cheques,
which can be changed in the large towns and typically incur a 5%
commission. Cash cards are very useful as hole-in-the-wall machines
are available in Santiago and Mendoza. Credit cards can be used in
some restaurants and for obtaining cash in some banks.
The cost of the tour
includes all meals while on the trek, but you will need money to
cover: Aconcagua climbing permit (US$200); other meals, snacks and
drinks (approximately the same price as Europe); any equipment hire;
gifts; airport taxes ($25 international); optional excursions; tips;
laundry etc.
Flights: We can arrange
(or assist with) your flight to Mendoza or Santiago at competitive rates
through our ATOL-bonded agency. Approximate prices are shown on the
Dates and Prices sheet sent with the brochure.
Insurance Your insurance policy must cover you against medical
expenses and repatriation. Please ensure it covers all activities
you will be participating in and we ask that you send us a copy of
your policy as soon as possible after booking.
Luggage & Equipment: You
should bring a piece of lockable luggage (eg holdall or kit bag) to
be left at the hostel in Santiago while trekking. For the main trek
you will need to re-pack into a rucksack (80-90 litre) which you
yourself will carry. For the climbs you will need: plastic boots suitable for crampons, crampons, sleeping
bag (-20 deg C), camping mat (if Therm-a rest style), gaiters,
headlamp, harness, good quality thermal underwear, polar fleece
jacket and pants, goretex-type jacket (with hood) and overpants/saloppettes,
down jacket, thin polypropelene gloves, mittens and goretex
overmittens, balaclava, ski-poles, bandanna, good glacier
sunglasses, head-torch.
All non-personal trekking and camping equipment is provided.
Some of the above (eg
plastic boots) can be hired locally. Advise us as early as possible
so that items can be reserved. (Please let us know if you'd like to
be sent a comprehensive equipment list).
Optional extensions: If
you want to spend more time in South America, whether a high
altitude train journey in Peru or Bolivia, a 5-9 day jungle
expedition in Peru's Manu Reserve, or a spectacular trek in another
part of the Andes, please get in touch.
Facts and figures
Argentina
Population: 34.5 million,
the vast majority of European origin. Important Middle-Eastern and
Japanese minorities. About 15% of the population is mestizo. Of the
200 thousand Indians, many live in northern Patagonia.
Capital City: Buenos
Aires, pop approx 11 million.
Geography: With 2.78
million square kilometres, Argentina is the second largest country
in South America.
Economy: GNP US$ 244
billion. Highest per capita income in South America. Wealth
traditionally from farming, but today it accounts for only 6% of
GNP. Over half of export earnings from farming and food processing.
Surplus of oil, natural gas and hydroelectricity. |
