We take you trekking into the most remote parts of the Bolivian Andes, the heart of the Cordillera Apolobamba.
This is a relatively unexplored area, to the north of La Paz, and well off the beaten tourist track.
Trek one is in part of the Madidi National Park, the largest and most important protected area in the Bolivian Amazon. Trek two takes us into the Apolobamba National Park, the largest Vicuña reservation in Bolivia.
The treks can be combined as they are here or taken separately.
A brief history
From La Paz we drive along the shores of lake Titicaca to Pelechuco. From this quiet pretty town, founded in 1560 and with a marked Spanish flavour, we embark on our trek.
The first part of the trek begins with a seven day circuit in the north-eastern part of the Apolobamba mountain range through largely uninhabited countryside.
The second part of the trek takes you through the heart of the southern Apolobamba mountains towards the village of Curva. Here is the home of the Kallawaya Indians, the shamans of the Andes.
This trek is demanding and requires that you are fit, acclimatised and used to being in remote areas.
Apolobamba National Park
The word Apolobamba, originally Apullu Pampa (several plateaus), the ancient name for the Ulla Ulla plains, which nowadays constitute the Apolobamba National Park (Area Nacional de Manejo Integrado Apolobamba), largest Vicuña reserve in Bolivia.
Ulla Ulla boasts a swelling population of 2,500 vicuñas and healthy numbers of black ibises, Chilean flamingos, Andean geese and viscachas. The wild vicuña herds can be observed at close range. During the day, the vicuñas graze with the alpaca. Towards evening, when their domesticated brothers and sisters head home to their stone-wall corrals, the vicuñas head off to more isolated pastures.
Kallawaya Indians
The land here has been home to many different peoples through the centuries. Some still survive in the lower mountain valleys.
The Kallawaya Indians, who are the most well known, are the traditional healers of the area. Highly respected throughout South America (they journey as far as Patagonia and Panama), they are expert in the use of herbal medicine and the art of making diagnoses by ‘reading’ a llama’s entrails or scattered coca leaves. The Kallawayas also work as arrieros on the trek.
Madidi National Park
The park started as a very small area between the shores of the lower Tuichi River and the Madidi River. As a result of the success of the conservation and tourism development programs more land has been brought into the protected area. Madidi Park adjoins the Ulla Ulla wild life reservation and together they form the largest protected land area in Bolivia.
Itinerary – day 1
Today we drive along the south-eastern shores of Lake Titicaca before entering the mountain valleys that lead to the village of Escoma, an ancient indigenous settlement, and then inland towards the Ulla Ulla plains and the mountains of the Muñecas and Apolobamba ranges. It takes about 10-12 hours to reach the small town of Pelechuco (meaning foggy corner).
Pelechuco experienced an economic boom at the time of the Spanish occupation – fuelled by their lust for gold - and its streets and houses reflect this.
No Spanish remain, but there is a thriving indigenous population.
Day 2-8
For 7 days, we make a circuit in the north-eastern area of the Apolobamba mountain range. Our route will take us first up to the Sanches pass at 4,770 m - highest point on the circuit, then down as low as 2,500 m at the Chullu river, and then back up to Pelechuco at 3,200 m crossing several valleys and mountain passes along the way.
The landscapes along the route, with the huge glaciers of the Apolobamba mountains on one side and the sea of clouds lying over the Amazon basin on the other side, are among the most impressive in the Bolivian cordilleras. The biodiversity is impressive also – from the high and very cold Andean valleys to the lower lying hot and humid forests a vast array of life forms are supported.
Because of this biodiversity and the remoteness of the area, there is a great opportunity to spot all sorts of wildlife. In addition to many species of birds (including the Andean condor), we are likely to encounter vicuna, viscacha, deer, and hopefully the Andean black bears known locally as Jucumaris.
We camp on the trek and then spend the last night in a basic hostel in Pelechuco.
Day 9
Return to La Paz or continue on to next trek.
Trek two – day 9
While our mule drivers load up the horses and mules, we start the ascent of 1,000 m, following a trail probably built by pre-Inca cultures. The trail climbs slowly through a mountain valley and very soon the mountains that surround Pelechuco will be below us. Close to the Keani pass, we set up our first campsite at 4, 600 m.
Day 10
We cross the Keani pass 4.800 m and then drop into the Ilo-Ilo valley. Our knees feel the steep descent.
We follow the stream down to the village of Palca. There are many Palcas in Bolivia, the word, in Aymara language means Y shape (the confluence of two rivers or valleys). Our second camp will be at Piedra Grande, a fabulous spot surrounded by soaring mountains.
Day 11
Today is our greatest challenge with a long climb up to the highest pass of the trek at 5,100 m. On the way we head up through a valley planted with potato crops until we find ourselves beside glaciers, and enter the very heart of the cordillera.
Within 5 to 6 hours walk we reach Sunchilli valley, a gold-rich valley that has been exploited since time immemorial.
When the Spanish arrived they took over the mines, and the Incas cursed them for this. The Spanish established a village at the base of the mountains but an earthquake loosened masses of ice from the surrounding glaciers and the ensuing avalanche of ice, mud and rocks completely destroyed the settlement. These days there are still many small mining operations in the area. We camp at the ruins of a mine at 4,500 m.
Day 12
We begin the day with a climb to the pass. Following llama paths and a secondary road on and off, we then continue walking over rolling hills approaching the sacred mountain of the Callawayas - Akamani 5,880 m. Today we set up our camp on a grassy plain bordered by two glacial streams.
Day 13
Today is our last day of trekking, which means the last pass to cross. After a long climb a walk through vegetable and medicinal plant plots brings us to Curva at 3,600 m, were we set up camp.
Day 14
Today we head back to La Paz.
Included
English speaking trek guide, kit transport, cook and dining tent, all group camping equipment, and private transport to and from the trek, meals and water from lunch day 1 to lunch day 14, park entry fees.
Not included
International flights (we can look for prices for you), travel insurance, sleeping bag, items of a personal nature, sleeping bag, tips.
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