Ecuador Mountaineering Course (EMC)
(strenuous climbing)
3 or 4 days from Quito

Ecuador Mountaineeering Course (EMC)

The Ecuadorian Andes are a climbers mecca. The vast array of snow-capped peaks has something to offer climbers of all abilities, from first timers to experienced technical mountaineers.

We have Dec 25-Jan 8 and Feb 5-19, 2009 two week Ecuador mountaineering trips confirmed. Trip includes glacier school and climbs of Cotopaxi and Chimborazo. Please contact the office for more information.

For experienced mountaineers we can provide qualified local mountain guides and full back up teams.

For beginners we offer 3 day mountaineering courses. The course can be followed by guided ascents of suitable peaks.

The course can be done on either Cotopaxi or Cayambe. Following the course if you are adequately acclimatised you may like to climb Cotopaxi, Cayambe or Chimborazo. This can be done directly after the course or after returning briefly to Quito.

Check our Books and Maps section where you will find a range of literature to help you get the most out of your South American adventure.

Cotopaxi 5897m is Ecuador's second-highest peak and one of the highest active volcanoes in the world. It is a nearly perfect snow-capped volcanic cone, situated 55 kilometres south of Quito in Cotopaxi National Park. We drive to just below the refuge (4,800m). The course takes place on the glacier within an hour’s walk of the hut. It is a 6-8 hour climb to the summit, mostly on steep snow and ice slopes. First climbed in November 1872 by Angel Maria Escobar (Colombia) and Wilhelm Reiss (Germany). Last eruption in 1904.

Cayambe at 5789m is the highest and coldest point on the equator. It is the only place on earth where the latitude is zero degrees and so is the temperature. Long thought extinct, Cayambe is now deemed to be active and is closely monitored.

From Quito it is a 2.5 hour drive. In our 4WD vehicle we can reach the mountain hut at 4650 m. The course begins on the glaciers within half an hour from the hut. Cayambe boasts huge glaciers that cover all sides of this massive bulky mountain. It is not so steep as Cotopaxi but the ascent takes approximately the same time as Cotopaxi, approximately 6 to 7 hours from the refuge to the summit.

On both peaks snow and ice conditions vary from year to year and the glacier changes shape, always requiring a constant monitoring of the situation in choosing a route. Crevasses and weather conditions may prevent us reaching the summit.

Skills Covered:

• Hypothermia treatment and prevention

• Route finding & rope team travel

• Crevasse rescue

• Snow/ice anchors and Belay systems

• Climbing knots

• Self arrest

• Top rope management and introduction to vertical ice climbing

Course Programme:

Day 1

Transfer to Cayambe or Cotopaxi volcano. On Cayambe we establish a fixed campsite at 4400m and on Cotopaxi at 3800 m. From here on we climb to the glacier for the course itself. On the first day we practice walking on the glacier, the use of an ice axe, crampons, carabiners, slings and some essential nuts. Dinner and overnight at camp (or refuge).

Day 2

Full day practice on the glacier. Use of rope, belays and arrest, abseiling, use of snow stakes & ice screws. Picnic-lunch en route and dinner at camp or in the refuge.

Day 3

General and comprehensive review of all learned. After lunch drive back to Quito. Or…

Day 4

After getting up at midnight we set off on the climb to the summit. It takes approx 7 hours from the refuge to reach the top of Cotopaxi. The first 1.5 hours is on moraine- quite loose scree – and then we put on crampons, harness, and head off up the glaciers towards the summit. It is really a long steep walk, with little in the way of technical climbing, but a few crevasses to cross, and perhaps one or two short sections where we put up a fixed rope.

Price includes (See Dates & Prices for prices):

• All group technical climbing gear

• 3 meals a day – except 2 on the last day

• Tents or dorm accommodation in mountain refuges, depending on location and numbers of participants

• If camping, large 2 man tents, toilet tent, mess tent, tables, chairs, lamps, foam mats.

• Private transport

• Instructors in a 1 to 4 ratio on courses, and 1 to 2 ratio on ascents

Participants are responsible for the following (see below for further detail):

• All snacks in between meals & drinks in the refuge

• Adequate Insurance

• Warm clothes: see below

• 4 season sleeping bag

• Plastic boots or suitable 4 season leather boots, and gaiters.

• Harness

• Large head torch & spare batteries

• Crampons and ice-axes

• Sun glasses & Sunscreen

• Water bottles and purification tablets

Acclimatisation Peaks

These peaks are non-technical and are suitable for acclimatizing on prior to tackling one of Ecuador’s big volcanoes. We recommend several days in Quito and at least two peaks before doing our mountaineering course or attempting peaks over 5,000m.

Guagua Pichincha, 4794m is an active volcano on the outskirts of Quito that last erupted in October 1999. This is a readily accessible and scenic acclimatization climb that offers fabulous views from the crater's rim.

Ruminahui 4634m was named after Atahualpa's general who led the fight against the Spanish conquistadors after Atahualpa was murdered. Legend has it that Ruminahui hid a large cache of the Inca ruler's gold in an undisclosed, and still unknown, location. This climb is a good acclimatisation warm up climb in Cotopaxi National Park and offers magnificent views of Cotopaxi.

Imbabura 4630m is the peak overlooking Otavalo. It is a long walk up, with a short scramble near the summit. The summit ridge offers great views of Imbabura's impressive open crater and Lago San Pablo.

Illinizas Norte 5126m is an excellent acclimatization peak with a bit of a scramble to reach the summit and magnificent views. Although it looks like a large pile of rock rubble, the rock is pretty good by Ecuadorian standards.

Pasachoa 4199m is an ancient, severely eroded volcano inactive since the last ice age. It is 30km south of Quito. There is a short scramble from the top of the grassy ridge to the summit.

Carihuayrazo 5100m is an ideal acclimatisation peak in conjunction with the Abraspungo trek. It is also a good place to practice basic glacier skills, use of crampons and ice-axe self arrest. Loose rock and scree to cross above the glacier and then a scramble to reach the summit.

Cubilche 3800 m, 14km from Otavalo, a dormant volcano with five small craters on the top, an ideal acclimatization peak.

Ecuador’s big volcanoes

Cotopaxi 5897m is Ecuador's second-highest peak and one of the highest active volcanoes in the world. It is a nearly perfect snow-capped volcanic cone, situated 55 kilometres south of Quito in Cotopaxi National Park. We drive to just below the refuge (4,800m) and from there it is a 6-8 hour climb to the summit, mostly on steep snow and ice slopes. First climbed in November 1872 by Angel Maria Escobar (Colombia) and Wilhelm Reiss (Germany). Last eruption in 1904.

Cayambe 5789m is the highest and coldest point on the equator. It is the only place on earth where the latitude is zero degrees and so is the temperature. Long thought extinct, Cayambe is now deemed to be active and is closely monitored.

Chimborazo 6310m is Ecuador’s highest peak, and is one of the most impressive in all the Andes. Measured from the centre of the earth it is the highest mountain in the world. Chimborazo is the southern-most peak in the Cordillera Occidental chain of mountains. It was first climbed in 1880 by Jean Antoine and Louis Carrel (Italy) and Edward Whymper (UK). Best time for climbing is during late January and early February.

Antisana 5758m is big, high and covered in crevasses. This peak is also wild and remote, offering some of the most interesting climbing in Ecuador. Climbing Antisana is serious business and is as technically difficult as Cayambe. This peak has seen relatively few ascents.

Illinizas Sur 5263m This peak is a technical climb – a steep route requiring use of crampons and ice axe as well as knowledge of self-arrest and glacier travel and crevasse rescue skills. The route is suffering from glacial retreat.

Description Price $USD/ Day             Foam sleeping mat 1.00     Therma Rest 3.00     Plastic Boots 3.00     Rope 2.50     Jacket 1.50     Crampons 2.00     Glacier Glasses 2.00     Harness 2.00     Mittons 2.00     Over Trousers 2.00     Ice-Axe 2.00     Gaiters 2.00     Sleeping Bag 4.00     Polar Jacket 1.50     Polar pants 1.50     Carabiner 0.50     Head Torch 2.00

Normal route up Cotopaxi.

*We can rent the above equipment to you, if needed.