Our new 6 day mountaineering course gives climbers the chance to practice their new techniques on a technical climb, with supervision and guidance if needed.
We aim to prepare participants with little or no mountaineering experience to be contributing team members on glaciated mountains. This longer course allows us to look at the many hazards that snow covered mountains present, how to prepare for summits, alpine starts and how to plan conquering a peak.
We systematically teach these skills and techniques necessary to cope with and enjoy the mountains.
Areas covered:
Hypothermia treatment and prevention, Route finding, Crevasse rescue, Rope team travel, Snow and ice anchors, Belay systems, Climbing knots, Glaciology, Self-arrest, Top-rope management and an introduction to vertical ice climbing, Summit preparation & alpine starts, summit climb.
Please note: Exact location and daily itinerary can vary depending on weather and snow conditions, ability and experience of participants.
We also have a 3 day mountaineering course.
Itinerary
Day 1
We leave Huaraz at 8am and drive up the Llanganuco valley to the popular Cebolla Pampa trail head. This is the entrance point for the Pisco climb and also the Laguna 69 trek. Yanapaqcha (5,460m) sits at the head of the same valley.
A few hours hiking from here will bring you to the basecamp for the course and climb, situated at the foot of the Yanapaqcha glacier and next to a beautiful alpine lake. Some preliminary skills will be presented this first afternoon after camp is set and an orientation to the area has been given.
We begin our course by introducing the gear and the art of mountaineering. During this 40-minute talk we explore the different dangers associated with the world of mountains. Following that, participants will learn the 3 different knots needed during the day.
Walking with crampons is next and practiced right there on the ice, followed by a lunch and an explanation of how glaciers are formed. We then head up on the glacier to a good steep slope where we practice the art of self-arrest, rope team travel and snow anchors. At 5.00 p.m. we stop for the day and descend to our camp for a hot drink, dinner and some sleep.
Day 2 Breakfast is at 7:15 am and the day starts in earnest at 8:00 am. We spend the morning in camp checking out belay systems, equalized anchors, haul systems - all components of the crevasse rescue system which we delve into before lunch.
After thoroughly understanding the system on dry land we then head up to the glacier at 2:00pm where we put our new skills to the test at the edge of a real crevasse. The entire afternoon is dedicated to the practice of this important skill "crevasse rescue" as it is the most common hazard of a non-technical glaciated climb. That evening those who would like can make the 20 minute walk to visit the beautiful ice cave which extends 50 meters underneath the glacier.
Day 3 We leave camp at 8:00 am head up to the ice for a trial climb. Participants take charge of the climb using all the skills learned in the previous 2 days. We wander through crevasse fields and over some technical terrain where both running and fixed belays will be used. A surprise crevasse rescue will need to be performed and timed.
Around noon we will arrive at an ice wall where participants will build a snow bollard and rappel down the 20-metre face. We spend the remaining hours vertical ice climbing using a top rope belay system.
Day 4 Today we learn how to plan a summit attempt – checking kit, routes, skills as well as practising any skills we fell need some work. We look to rest and eat well so that we have maximum energy for the early morning Yanapaqcha (5,460m) summit start.
Day 5 We leave camp about 4am and climb through the morning hours on the flanks of the mountain. Slightly more technical than Pisco, Yanapaqcha offers slopes up to 60 degrees in verticality, as the route winds through big blue crevasse fields. It tops out on a very defined summit point with views of Chacaraju, Pisco, Chopicalqui, Huascaran, and more.
After the descent, we have a final evening at camp, reflecting on the day’s climb.
Day 6 We hike out to the road to meet the pick-up vehicle and drive the 2 hours back to Huaraz.
Check our Books and Maps section where you will find a range of literature to help you get the most out of your South American adventure.
What’s included Private transport to & from trail head, instructors (max ratio of 5 to 1 on course and 2 to 1 on climb), tents, cooking equipment & cook, all meals (bring your own snacks), personal technical gear as follows: harness & karabiners, prussic loops, group technical kit: ropes, snow stakes, snow screws & technical ice axes.
Not included All snacks in between meals, warm clothes: 3 layers of fleece tops, thermal and fleece bottoms, waterproof outer shell - top and bottom, warm socks, water proof gloves, warm wool/fleece hat, scarf , sun glasses, sunscreen, water bottles and purification tablets, dinner on the night of the 3rd day, plastic boots, gaiters, crampons, walking ice axe, international flights, insurance, tips
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