Our Ecuador climbing trip offers an introduction to the glories of high altitude mountaineering (or for those who wish to extend their high altitude experience) whilst enjoying some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in the Andes. Ease of access makes the volcanoes of Ecuador particularly attractive to those with a limited time frame providing an adequate period is allowed for acclimatisation. You will experience all of the earth's ecological zones from subtropical to arctic by climbing in the fabulous Avenue of Volcanoes.
This tour allows you to climb four of the most impressive volcanoes in Ecuador: Imbabura (4,630 metres), Illiniza North (5,100 metres), Cotopaxi (5,897 metres) and Chimborazo (6,310 metres), the latter Ecuador's highest and largest mountain which is the furthest point from the centre of the earth due to the equatorial bulge. The breathtaking views and sense of achievement make all the effort well worthwhile. Coupled with colonial cities, colourful markets and time to relax in both tropical Banos and the highland capital of Quito this superb trip provides any fit outdoor person with the perfect all round expedition.
(No previous mountaineering experience is required although some prior experience would be preferred to attempt the peaks on this tour. Climbing equipment, i.e. plastic boots, crampons and ice-axe can be rented in Quito. Instruction in its use is given by our mountain guides).
Joining the tour
On booking, you will be
sent the following information: name and address of Quito hotel,
advice on how to get there, time of rendezvous with tour leader.
Itinerary details
Note: If circumstances
dictate, certain details, such as overnight stops, may vary from
those shown in the day-by-day itinerary below.
Day 1 Arrival in Quito
Arrival in Quito and transfer to the hotel. Evening briefing. (1
night hotel)
Day 2
Quito is surrounded on all sides by impressive volcanic mountain scenery and is a wonderful city in which to recover from the flight and adapt to the altitude (2,800m). Transport will be provided from your hotel to Quito’s beautiful old town. Your city tour begins with a visit to Independence Square, where the Presidential Palace, the Cathedral and El Sagrario Church are located. We will also visit the Church of La Compañía (1605), with its amazing gilt altars. This is considered the finest example of baroque art in America and the Moorish influence can also be noted in the intricate designs carved on the magnificent red and gold columns and ceilings. Afterwards, we will take you to the church and monastery of San Francisco (1535). This is the oldest Ecuadorian church and the main altar inside is a spectacular example of baroque carving. There is also a fine collection of artwork, including paintings, sculpture and furniture dating back to the 16th century. We will also drive up to the highest viewpoint of the city, “ El Panecillo” where we will have a spectacular view of Quito and the opportunity to see the only winged
virgin in South America. Just 30 minutes from Quito is the location of the equator at La Mitad del Mundo (“the middle of the world”.) This is the site where, in 1736, Charles-Marie de la Condamine’s expedition made the measurements, which demonstrated that this was the equator. Here visitors have the rare opportunity to be in two hemispheres at the same time! A 30m monument was built to mark the site and visitors can take an elevator right to the top, as well as visiting the excellent ethnographical museum inside. Around the monument are buildings and restaurants designed to represent those of a typical colonial town. The evening is free to enjoy the vibrant nightlife, internet cafes and artisan shops near the hotel. Hotel, Quito. B
Day 3
Travel North of Quito for 1½ hrs to arrive at the famous cultural town of Otavalo. The Indian markets in Ecuador are well known for their colour and diversity. In every region, each community has its own traditional costumes, crafts and cultural characteristics that distinguish it from other towns. Visitors can hope to encounter everything from wool textiles, native fruits, fresh vegetables, and flowers to jewellery, ceramics, baskets, wood carvings, local paintings, embroidery, tools and even animals of all shapes and sizes! It is best to arrive on a Saturday as this is when the world renowned market takes place where people come from far and wide (and abroad!) to witness this colourful and very traditional extravaganza. Food, crafts, handiwork, animals all converge on the tiny cobbled streets of this atmospheric place. You will be driven out through Cotacachi, a village famed for its leatherwork, to Laguna Cuicocha, a popular scenic spot 1/2hr away far up in the hills of Otavalo. This stunning lake was formed when the volcano Cotacachi exploded so violently that the peak submerged totally. Today two small volcanoes are emerging in the middle of the lake and the ridge walk around the rim is a fantastic way to view this area from all sides and also on clear days see the volcanoes of this area, snow-capped Cayambe and rocky Imbabura (4600m) towering over the patchwork fields of this agricultural area. Plus it is of course useful acclimatisation! Tonight you will stay in Ibarra, a small community near Otovalo and conveniently close to Imbabura, tomorrow’s objective. Hotel, Ibarra. B, L
Day 4
An early start today for an acclimatisation climb to Imbabura (4,630m). This is a rocky peak offering more of a walk than an actual climb but it provides excellent exercise through some beautiful lush scenery, past typical farm settlements, over tussocky hills with the ridge at the top giving the opportunity for some exciting scrambling. The views of the open caldera at the top are impressive as the colourful patch-work of fields in this agricultural region lay before you. Descend early afternoon and return to Quito for the night. Hotel, Quito. B, L
Day 5
Early in the morning continue south-west and onto Machachi, the base town for the Illinizas Ecological Reserve. Enjoy the magnificent landscape en route on the Pan American Highway from the eastern range of the Andes to the western range along the Avenue of the Volcanoes where Cotopaxi and the Illiniza twin volcanoes amongst many are located. There are over thirty of these picturesque peaks and the glint of the permanent glaciers on some of the higher ones provide a stark contrast to the arid rocky terrain and cultivated fields. Then, perhaps with the aid of the 4-wheel drive, reach the 3,800 m. statue of the virgin maid and the road end. From here start walking with your overnight gear, through the Enchanted Woods of Polilepys trees to your peaceful campsite at 3,950m. If group numbers are small we will use the National Park mountain hut (very basic but with bunk beds). Campsite, Illinizas. B, L, D
Day 6
After about 1 hour of walking time, the trek enters the sandy slope right beneath the south peak (5,248m) and then it turns up the ridge for a further hour to the col between the two peaks, where the mountain hut is located (4,600 m). It is then a steady traverse up the scree slope to the rocky ridgeline that leads along a slightly tricky rocky escarpment. The route to the Illiniza Norte summit (5,120m) involves a non-technical scramble that should not be attempted in inclement weather. It is a fairly short ascent and a good test to see how you are developing with the altitude and also as preparation for Cotopaxi. Descend back to the parking lot and transfer to La Estación, high in the hills above Machachi. La Estacion is a beautifully restored traditional hacienda set in stunning gardens and patios with plenty of thoughtfully decorated individual cabanas and a comfortable bar in which to drink beer, play cards and relax. It is family run and the welcome you should receive will make you feel very much at home. The restaurant serves fabulous home grown meals and each room has a wonderfully warming wood burning stove or
open fire. Hacienda La Estación, near Machachi. B, L
Day 7
In the morning continue to Cotopaxi National Park, a 20 minute drive down the Pan American Highway then a rough track through to the park entrance (approx. 1 1/2hrs). Once you reach the valley of Limpiopungo (3,800m) we will set up camp in order to acclimatize and prepare for climbing. The camp is situated at the base of several volcanoes and there is the option of trekking through this fascinating landscape to nearby Rumiñahui (4,200m). Sincholagua (4,898m) can also be seen nearby and condors are often spotted flying overhead. Again if numbers are small we will use the Tambopaxi Acclimatisation Centre hut near the Limpiopungo Lakes. Camp, Cotopaxi National Park. B, L, D
Day 8
In the morning after breakfast continue to the parking lot (4,600m) and from there trek to Cotopaxi´s refuge, the Jose Rivas Hut (4,800m). Rest, and in the afternoon a last and final class of glacier school, testing equipment on site and a brief recce of the route you will take the following morning. You will notice the sulphur smell underfoot which seems strange as you are wrapped up in down jackets and warm clothing! Return to the hut and rest body and mind to leave at night (approx 2am) towards the highest active volcano summit in the world ! Mountain Hut, Cotopaxi National Park. B, L, D.
Day 9
Climbing Cotopaxi (5,897m). Set off up the scree slope for approx 30 minutes until the massive glacier wall looms up out of the darkness. At this point you should be able to see the lights of Quito shining surprisingly close (weather permitting). Climb up on to the glacier itself and wind your way through the crevasse field. The cracking of the ice is quite disconcerting in the darkness and most of the crevasses are so huge that you can see far down into their depths. Snow bridges have formed across them and the path is quite obvious. You gain height quickly as the ground steepens once through the worst of the crevasses. Onwards and upwards to a massive ice wall roughly parallel with the prominent rock band (approx. 5,600m) one can see from the hut. Traverse round and ascend up onto the summit dome finally gaining the top as the sun rises. High above the clouds a whole circle of volcanoes should be clearly seen including both Illinizas, Antisana, Altar and possibly even Cayambe. The darkness of the ground below contrasts sharply with the brilliant white snow shimmering in the sun (we hope!). The climb should take 6-7hrs. The descent should take only a few hours returning to collect your overnight gear from the hut (there are lockers but padlocks are required). Drive south along the Pan American Highway towards Riobamba. Just north of the city, amongst the foothills of Chimborazo and Carihuairizo volcanoes, is another delightful traditional hacienda made famous by various political gatherings and personalities over the centuries (including Simon Bolivar). It offers billiards, table tennis, saunas and a cosy bar/restaurant all set around courtyards and gardens with views onto the hills beyond. Hacienda, near Riobamba. B
Day 10
A much needed rest day. You can either do some laundry, relax in the gardens and day rooms at the hacienda or take the 20 minute journey into town. Hacienda, near Riobamba. B
Day 11
Continue driving west to the highest mountain of the country, the mighty Chimborazo (6310m) and the mountain known in the last century as the highest in the world (which technically it still is if measured from the centre of the Earth). The mountain is noticeably more volcanic in nature to Cotopaxi and herds of vicunas often roam the park grazing on the sparse vegetation that grows amidst the blackened rock. From the parking lot it is a 30 minutes walk from the lower Carrel refuge(4800m) to the Whymper Hut (in memory of the British explorer who opened the first routes to the summit) at 5000m. Rest in the afternoon as it is another early start to attempt the summit. Mountain Refuge, Chimborazo. B, L, D
Day 12
Up at midnight to trek up through the scree and low-lying snow towards the moraines that lead to the “Castle”, where the ice path begins to head up along the ridges of the western slopes. The rock massif known as El Corridor and El Castillo looms menacingly above and care must be taken not to descend during the heat of the sun as massive boulders break loose and crash down the mountainside. The gradient is steep from early on and the crevasses hard to spot due to the heavy snow coverage. Often they are mere ‘sink holes’ in the surface. The route continues steadily up with little rest or level ledges to stop on. After climbing through the night the First Summit should be reached by sunrise. The spectacle of the mountain casting its shadow in front of the rising sun is unforgettable. From here it is a short walk along fairly flat terrain to the true summit (this can be a slog if the sun has turned the snow to slush). The views should be spectacular in good conditions and the neighbouring peak of Carihuairizo at 5,020m seems dwarfed. If weather permits, the Pacific Ocean can even be seen. The climb lasts an average of 8 – 9 hours to the top (depending on weather and participant conditions). A strict turn around time should be kept as there is a high avalanche risk on this mountain due its steep gradient and the descent can become tricky in soft snow. Return to the hut and collect your gear for your onward journey heading to the tropical town of Banos. Banos (1800m), is known as the gateway to the jungle. The dramatic change from highland vegetation to lush subtropical flora is fascinating and one of the highlights of this trip. Banos is situated at the base of Tungurahua (which is often erupting and disturbing local life) and is surrounded by dense cloud forest. There is a variety of subtropical, lush vegetation, an enormous variety of plant and bird life, also waterfalls and thermal baths to experience. It is a truly picturesque setting with water cascading down sheer faces and lush greenery clinging to the vertical cliff sides. Alternatively, if weather prevents a summit attempt the first day, a spare day is built into the itinerary to offer another attempt. Hotel, Banos. B
Day 13
A much-needed free day in Banos. Time to relax or make use of some of the variety of options on offer. Banos attracts a great number of visitors and there are many souvenir shops, market stalls and operators offering white water rafting. horse-riding and mountain biking amongst many other adrenalin-infused activities. Today is also used as a spare summit day. Hotel, Banos. B
Day 14
A free morning in Banos before returning to Quito after lunch for some last minute shopping in the nearby artesan market. Hotel, Quito, B.
Day 15 End of tour
Our price includes: All
transfers in Ecuador, accommodation in hotels, two man tents, mountain huts. Full camping equipment (tents, mess-tent,
mats), pack animals, porters, all meals while on trek and climbs,
breakfasts throughout, qualified English speaking mountain guides
(client - guide ratio 3:1) on climbs, trekking guides during trek.
Not included in the prices are: International flights, drinks, meals
not included above, national park fees, international airport tax (USD
41), personal expenses, tips, travel insurance.
Check our Books and Maps section where you will find a range of literature to help you get the most out of your South American adventure.
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