Day 1

Arrive Puerto Montt, a bustling port city of some 150 000 inhabitants, and capital of Chile’s Lake District. It lies on the Reloncavi Estuary at the northern end of the Chilean Archipelago. (2 nights hotel)

Day 2

Today we hope to enjoy some spectacular Lake District scenery. A short drive inland from Puerto Montt, on the shore of the stunning Lago Llanquihue, lies the small town of Puerto Varas. Weather permitting, one of the region’s classic panoramas can be seen from here: The perfect snow-capped cone of Osorno volcano (2,680m) reflected in the lake’s waters.

Day 3

We board a catamaran at Puerto Montt for the four-hour crossing to the port of Chaiten. As we head south across the Reloncavi Estuary and Moraleda Canal we are treated - weather permitting - to views of mountainous forest rising steeply from the channel to the east. To the west, meanwhile, the cultivated hills of the Chiloe archipelago are in view. During the crossing, we may glimpse dolphins and sea lions. The appearance of the dramatic, needle-sharp Corcovado volcano to the south heralds our approach to Chaiten. The afternoon is free here for exploration of the small frontier settlement with its splendid backdrop. We can also take a vehicle to the thermal baths at nearby Amarillo. (1 night hotel)

Day 4

Today we begin our journey south on the Carretera Austral (Austral Highway), into the heart of the dramatic backcountry of the southern Araucaria region. The Carretera Austral was built over several decades to provide access to an isolated and previously inaccessible wildernesss, and open it up for settlement. Today we follow a little-used section of the road. We head inland then south, running parallel to and never far from the coast. We drive through sparsely-populated, mountainous backcountry.
The road is flanked for much of today by lush temperate rainforest. Above the tree-line, the higher peaks are topped with glaciers. Today, settlements are few and far between. Our destination is Puyuhuapi, a village located on the shore of the beautiful Puyuhuapi Fjord. (2 nights hotel)

Day 5

Today is dedicated to exploration of the nearby Queulat National Park. Aside from being a quintessential example of the rainforest vegetation found hereabouts, the park’s high ground is surmounted by an ice cap some 30km across. During the hiking we have planned for this day, our aim is to gain views of a dramatic hanging glacier and iceberg-filled lagoon

Day 6

Today we resume our journey south on the Carretera Austral for the 240km stretch to Coyhaique. As the highway drifts east and further into the ‘rain shadow’ of the Andes, we begin to see changes in scenery and vegetation. Although the vegetation remains lush, rainfall here is significantly lower and Araucarian evergreens give way to forests of Nothofagus (southern beech).
As we approach Coyhaique, we see clear signs of man’s impact on the environment, notably the scars left by the slash and burn of the first European settlers. Our journey ends at Coyhaique, regional capital of Aysen. With a population of 40,000 inhabitants, it is far and away the most populated town in this part of Chile. (2 nights hotel)

Day 7

We dedicate most of today to viewing close-up one of the natural wonders of the Chilean Archipelago: The San Rafael Glacier. Access to the glacier is by light aircraft from Coyhaique. Our route to the Fjords takes us over the North Patagonian Ice Cap. With clear weather, we are treated to spectacular views of the glaciers and snow peaks of the ice cap, including Cerro San Valentin (4,080 metres), the highest mountain in Patagonia.
The San Rafael Glacier emanates from the western flank of the ice cap. After about an hour we are flying above it. We land nearby, then board a launch on the San Rafael Lagoon and, weaving between giant icebergs, come to within a short - but prudent - distance of the glacier’s snout. During the summer, icebergs calve frequently and noisily into the lagoon. We fly back to Coyhaique by a more northerly route, and have the remainder of the day free there.

Day 8

Today we make a late start and drive south for a couple of hours to the starting point of our four-day Cerro Castillo national park trek. Today we aim to walk for a few hours on easy, undulating trails that take us in and out of forest. We aim to set up camp in a clearing. (4 days/ 3 nights camping, all meals)

Day 9

Our trek resumes on farm tracks through forest and rough grazing land. Eventually we emerge onto the flood plain of the Rio Turbio river. Visible across to the right are the northernmost, forested flanks of the Castillo massif. From here on, trails are fairly indistinct.
We follow the Rio Turbio up-stream, once more interning ourselves in beech forest as we continue to ascend the valley. There is the possibility here of a side-trip west to the base of the Penon Glacier. We emerge above the tree-line and continue towards the pass (1,450m) on scree. Snow may be encountered hereabouts, even in mid-summer, and our descent to the south is on steep, scree-covered terrain. As the valley levels out, we follow the trail downstream and into forest. We aim to set up our second night’s camp in a forest clearing.

Day 10

10 Resuming on day three, we ford the fast-flowing river and follow a trail, often indistinct, to its confluence with the surging white-water of the Estero del Bosque river. Here begins a long ascent towards the second pass. Our trail takes us through ancient beech forest and across a secondary river. We have the possibility here to follow this secondary river to the glacial lake that feeds it for wonderful views of the glacier beyond. We continue to ascend until once more we emerge above the tree line.
Our reward is a fabulous view of the main ice-clad Cerro Castillo massif. By late morning we reach the shore of the stunning natural amphitheatre enclosing the Laguna Cerro Castillo. We cross the Estero del Bosque where it emerges from the lake, and ascend a huge moraine to the east. An impressive panorama unfolds, with Cerro Castillo and its glaciers looming large above the cirque. Our ascent takes us onto exposed screes and finally the pass at about 1,700m. A steep descent to the west eases off as the forest, initially sparse, steadily thickens. We camp in a clearing.

Day 11

We begin our descent of the broad, steep-sided, Estero Parada valley and eventually reach the main Rio Ibanez valley. Once more, grazing lands and the first, lone homestead seen for days, signal the proximity of a road. The final few kilometres of the trek take us along a farm track and towards the village of Cerro Castillo. Today we drive back to Coyhaique for a day’s R&R. (1 night hotel)

Day 12

We drive to Balmaceda, Coyhaique’s airport, and board the weekly flight (1.5 hours) to Punta Arenas on the Magellan Straits at the southern tip of mainland South America. If time allows, we visit the Ottway Sound penguin colony before continuing north to the town of Puerto Natales. Puerto Natales (population …) is a frontier town with a dramatic setting on the shore of Last Hope Sound. It is also the gateway to the Torres del Paine national park. (1 night hotel)

Day 13

Today we set off from Puerto Natales by boat, and aim to navigate all the way to the Torres del Paine national park. We board a cruiser and head north across Last Hope Sound. Weather permitting, we are treated to great views of the surrounding peaks, among them the glacier-encrusted Cerro Balmaceda. As the fjord tapers to its northern point, we disembark at Puerto Toro. A short walk takes us right up to the Serrano Glacier.
We then board zodiac boats and continue our journey up the Serrano river and into the heart of Paine. The exciting journey affords spectacular glimpses of the South Patagonian Ice Field and great views of the awesome Paine massif. We switch to a bus and head for our night’s accommodation within the national park. (1 night hostel)

Day 14

We spend the day in the national park, aiming to take in the Paine’s best view-points. We drive to Lago Grey and walk to the beach at its southern end for great views of giant icebergs that drift here from the glacier at the lake’s northern end. Then it’s round to lakes Nordenskjold and Pehoe for some of the most stunning panoramas in Patagonia, featuring the 2,400 metre-high granite-and-shale Cuernos and the 3,050 metre-high Cerro Paine Grande snow peak. Finally it’s Back to our hostal for the night. (1 night hostel)

Day 15

On our last day in the park, we drive to the Laguna Amarga area, where herds of guanaco (wild llamas) are normally encountered. We continue to the Estancia Cerro Paine area at the eastern end of the massif and begin the one-day Torres hike. We head out of camp and up the Ascencio valley via a steep, zig-zagging path which turns into the ravine high above the foaming river. The trail then goes through forest where, with luck and patience, a forest-dwelling bird species, such as the Austral parakeet - southernmost parrot species in the world - or flame-crested Magellanic Woodpecker, may be spotted.
Eventually we emerge onto an exposed moranic slope for the final clamber over boulders, ending at the moraine lip (1,000m) and the Laguna Torre view point. The three pillars of the awesome Torres del Paine soar to almost 2km above the glacier-encrusted cirque. The descent to our vehicle takes about three hours. We exit the park and arrive back in Puerto Natales in the evening. (1 night hotel)

Day 16

We return to Punta Arenas. If we were unable to get to the penguin colony on day 14, we will go there today. The rest of the day is free to explore the city and one-time capital of the Patagonian wool industry. (1 night hotel).

Day 17

Tour ends Punta Arenas.

Trek around the entire Paine massif on our Paine Circuit or, to reach the really remote areas, our Paine W trek and kayak trip.

Check our group and tailor made options. And you can always contact the office with questions or for advice.