Marmolejo (6100 m) is the southernmost 6000+m high peak in the world. It is not frequently climbed. Our route takes us up the north & northwest face. There are no technical difficulties. The landscape is very similar to the Himalayas: big mountains and immense glaciers with the added benefit of solitude. Close to Marmolejo is the very active volcano of San José (6880 m) with two smoking fumaroles.
Itinerary
Day 1
We set off from Santiago to drive to the start of our trek at Yeso (3 hours). From Yeso we walk up the long broad valley of la Engorda to reach Camp 1 at approximately 3,400 metres. Camp
Day 2
Camp 1 to Camp 2. Our trek today takes us to 4,350 metres (5 hours approx.), across snow slopes often covered in penitentes (wind formed ice stalacmites typical of this part of the high Andes). Camp beyond the pass.
Day 3
Camp 2 to High Camp. Today we continue to climb for approximately 4 hours to 5,100 metres. The views from here are excellent. From here on up it can be extremely cold.
Day 4
High Camp to the Summit(6,108m). Today we climb to the summit, taking approximately 7 hours on the way up and 4 to get back to the camp.
Day 5
High Camp to Camp 1.
Day 6
Camp 1 to Yeso. Rendezvous with vehicle & possible visit to hot springs before return to Santiago.
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