This challenging trekking
adventure, set in the wilds of the southern Patagonian Andes of
Chile and Argentina, takes in three natural wonders of South
America. We spend seven days trekking among the awesome granite
spires of Fitzroy in Argentina's Los Glaciares National Park. We
continue to Chile's Torres del Paine National Park, a wonder of
glacial sculpture where we trek for six days. We also spend a day
observing the spectacular Perito Moreno Glacier.
Joining the tour
On booking, you will be
sent the following information: name and address of Calafate hotel,
advice on how to get there and time of rendezvous with tour leader.
NOTE: We are happy to upgrade you to hotel accommodation whilst in towns.
Itinerary details
Note: If circumstances
dictate, certain details, such as overnight stops, may vary from
those shown in the day-by-day itinerary below.
Day 1 Join the tour in El
Calafate. A small town of some four thousand inhabitants, El
Calafate was for several decades a tiny staging post for the wagons
transporting wool between remote estancias (sheep stations) and the
coast. It lies near the shore of the vast, turquoise lake Argentino
and is today a gateway to the natural wonders of the Los Glaciares
national park. (1 night hotel)
Day 2 Today we travel by
bus north then west across Patagonia's 'flat, endless' plains, and
finally through rolling pre-Andean heath. Flanking the opaque-blue
waters of Lake Viedma to the south, we gradually approach a row of
jagged peaks which loom up ahead. Our destination is El Chalten, a
small settlement on the floodplain of the Rio de Las Vueltas. It is
set amid the magnificent surroundings of the Fitzroy Range on the
edge of Los Glaciares National Park. The park comprises some 2300
square miles of forested mountains, sheer granitic spires and
immense glaciers and lakes. It is one of the great glacial regions
of the world. (1 night hostel - dormitory accommodation)
Day 3 Today we start our
trek in the Los Glaciares National Park. A short bus journey takes
us to the trail-head. In the morning we follow the Rio Electrico
through forest to the Los Troncos mountain refuge and camp at Piedra
del Fraile. Leaving our packs here we continue to the foot of Mount
Fitzroy (3441 metres) north face and a view of the impressive
Marconi Glacier. We return to overnight. (1 night camping)
Day 4 Today's trek takes
us to the Fitzroy base camp. This spectacular granite peak, named in
honour of the captain of the Beagle, the ship on which Charles
Darwin sailed around South America in the 1830s, reaches two miles
into the sky and was first climbed in 1953 by Lionel Teray. We
follow the Rio Blanco valley to the lake of Piedras Blancas where we
have an impressive view of the hanging Piedras Blancas Glacier. In
the afternoon, having left our packs at camp, we ascend the frontal
moraine to Laguna de Los Tres for a stunning view of Mount Fitzroy.
(1 night camping)
Day 5 We set off this
morning along the shore of Laguna Madre through the Hija Valley and
onto Cerro Torre base camp. Cerro Torre (3128 metres) is a sheer,
needle-shaped mountain which was once rated unclimbable and
conquered only after Everest. In the afternoon we trek to the old
Maestri base camp along the moraine ridge on the northern side of
Laguna Torre (source of the Fitzroy river). From here, weather
permitting, we have superb views of Cerro Torre, Aguja Standhardt
and Torre Egger. (2 nights camping)
Day 6 The Cerro Torre
Glacier is the highlight of today's trek. Depending on weather
conditions we will either walk across the glacier towards the base
of the sheer 2000 metre south wall of Cerro Torre, or stay at the
face of the glacier doing some easy ice climbing. All necessary
equipment (rope, harness, crampons, ice-axe) and expert guidance are
provided. In order to access the glacier we have to make a Tyrolean
crossing of the river. This is done by clipping a caribiner onto a
fixed rope over the river and pulling yourself, or being pulled,
across. We return to our camp for the night.
Day 7 Today we cross the
river on the Tyrolean traverse once again, then trek through a dense
forest of southern beech. Emerging from the forest, we climb 700
metres to the ridge which connects the summits of the Pliegue
Tumbado. The panorama of the Fitzroy group and the Rio Tunel Valley
is breathtaking. From here we continue down to our camp, a piece of
sheltered beech forest not far from Lago Toro. (2 nights camping)
Day 8 From our camp we set
off on a long, strenuous but hugely rewarding day hike to the Paso
del Viento for stunning views over the Patagonian Ice Cap. If the
weather is clear we are offered views of the Upper Viedma Glacier
and the Mariano Range in the heart of the ice cap.
Day 9 Today we trek back
to Chalten. Having negotiated the ridge which separates the Rio
Tunel from the Rio de Las Vueltas Valley, we descend through forest
and rolling pre-Andean heath to Chalten. (1 night lodge - dormitory
accommodation)
Day 10 We travel by bus from El Chalten back to El Calafate. (2
nights hostel)
Day 11 This day is dedicated to observing close-up the spectacular Perito Moreno Glacier. Vast in scale (over four miles wide and 60 metres high at its face!), this almost surreal spectacle is set amid a labyrinthine system of iceberg-filled waterways, and backed by deciduous beech forests and snow peaks. Spectacular even by the standards of the Los Glaciares National Park, this glacier also represents an anomaly: The Perito Moreno, unlike the other glaciers of the region, is still growing. Periodically (every so many years) its advancing edge reaches the near shore, cutting off and damming up the Brazo Sur ice-berg channel. When this occurs, the steadily-building water pressure forces a breach in the ice and eventually a huge volume of water bursts forth and surges through to Lake Argentino. A feature of the glacier is the frequent, ear-splitting calving of ice-bergs.
Day 12 Today we embark on our journey into the Torres del Paine National Park. En route we may see some of the area's typical fauna, such as condor, buff-necked ibis and rhea (South American ostrich). The Torres del Paine is one of South America's most spectacular national park. The soaring granite pillars of the Torres (Towers), reaching over 2500 metres into the sky, are only one of the park's attractions. These, together with the Cuernos (Horns - light-coloured granite topped with a dark sedimentary rock) and Cerro Paine Grande (3350 metres) are distinct features of the huge massif which forms the centre-piece of the park. Also impressive are the glacial lakes, waterfalls, glaciers, dense forests and abundant wildlife (including a large colony of guanacos). This national park is our base for the next six days.
Our first camp, to the E of the massif and near Estancia Cerro Paine, gives us access to the eponimous Torres of Paine. (2 nights camping)
Day 13 Today we head out
of camp and up the Ascencio valley via a steep, zig-zagging path
which turns into the ravine high above the foaming river. The trail
then passes through forest for an hour and a half. With patience,
one of the extrovert forest-dwelling bird species, such as the
screeching Austral parakeet (enicognathus terrugineus - southernmost
parrot species in the world), flame-crested Magellanic Woodpecker (campephilus
magellanicus) or mottled Chilean Flicker (colaptes pitius), may be
spotted Eventually we emerge onto an exposed moranic slope for the
final clamber over boulders, ending at the moraine lip (1000m) and
the Laguna Torre view point. The three pillars of the awesome Torres
del Paine soar to almost 2km above the glacier-encrusted cirque. The
descent to camp takes about three hours.
Day 14 We break camp and
head off clockwise beneath Cerro Almirante Nieto. The final few
hours take us above and along the north shore of Lago Nordenskjold
on the longest stage of the Paine 'W'. Our destination is the
Refugio Los Cuernos. (1 night refugio - dormitory accommodation)
Day 15 Today we continue
westwards for an hour or so and, at the Campamento Italiano, turn
into the French Valley. Our aim, weather permitting, is to climb
above the tree line to enjoy some incredible views. The ascent is
through southern beech (lenga - Nothofagus pumilio) forest, which
becomes progressively more stunted as we climb. The varied trail
combines forest with stretches of wind-buffeted moraine, and
requires occasional steep clambers. Periodically, ear-splitting
cracks announce the calving of ice from hanging glaciers on the
sheer E face of Paine Grande to the left. The disintegrating
glaciers are normally clear of cloud since the valley lies in the
lee of the mountain. With clear conditions, ice mushrooms,
characteristic of Patagonian peaks, can be seen on Paine Grande's
summit ridge. The ascent continues to the Campamento Britanico where
a rickety climbing hut used by pioneering British climbing
expeditions stands in a clearing. A viewpoint just beyond affords
stunning panoramas of the Cuernos to the east. To the north, a sheer
wall of shale-capped granite has been sculpted by ice and wind into
several weird shapes; among these, the Aleta de Tiburon (Shark's
Fin). The return to the Campamento Italiano takes one and a half
hours, then it's west again for 2 hours to our camp on the north
west shore of Lake Pehoe. NB For days 15 & 16, you will be expected
to carry your personal overnight requirements, including a sleeping
bag. Alternatively, a sleeping bag can be hired at the refugio. (2
nights camping)
Day 16 From here we make
a day hike to the stunning Lago Grey. After some three hours we are
treated, weather permitting, to great views of Grey Glacier to the
north.
Day 17 We have a lazy morning and then take the boat from the nearby jetty, across Lago Pehoe to Pudeto. Here we rendezvous with our vehicle and head for our campsite just along the road at Camping Pehoe. We make an afternoon visit to Salto grande waterfall and walk along the shores of Lake Nordensjkold for superb views of the whole Paine massif.
Tonight’s camp offers splendid panoramas of the Cuernos and Paine Grande. (2 nights camping)
Day 18 Today we visit the western sector of the park. We would hope to get some fantastic general views of the massif and glaciers from the Ferrier view point. We will also go to the beach at the southern end of Lago Grey to see close-up the giant icebergs’ which drift here from the vast glacier at the northern end of the lake seven km away.
Day 19 Today we leave the park and head back to El Calafate. The rest of the day is at your own to visit town. Alternatively, we can arrange for you to head to Puerto Natales. This remote town of 15,000 inhabitants stands on Ultima Esperanza (Last Hope) Sound at the centre of an intricate network of fjords and snow-capped islands. The gulf is home to a variety of rare bird species, including the black-necked swan.
Day 20 Tour ends El
Calafate.
Check our Books and Maps section where you will find a range of literature to help you get the most out of your South American adventure.
Practical information
Small groups mean flexibility and informality. Your tour leader will be on hand to iron out any problems and give informed advice on things to do, where to eat etc. In towns we use clean, comfortable hotels. In El Chalten, a lodge with dormitory-style accommodation is used.
In Fitzroy, we transport all the general kit (tents, dinning tent, tables, food, first aid kits etc. You carry your personal belongings including your sleeping bag & mattress and any items you need during the trek: jacket and gloves, spare clothes, head torch, water bottle etc.
When you arrive in Chalten, you can designate 8 kg of luggage (per person) which we send to Camp Torre to be met by you on day 4. You also have the chance to send stuff back to Chalten from Camp Torre when you leave there on day 6, helping to lighten your load.
In Paine National Park you need to carry all their personal belongings, including sleeping bag and mattress, on days 14s and 15. All trek meals are prepared by our local cook, except for dinner on day 14 and breakfast and lunch on day 15, when meals are prepared by refugio staff. For all other days in Paine, your luggage is moved around by vehicle or boat.
Fitness and experience:
To get the most out of this tour you should be in good physical
condition. It is not easy to grade the fitness level required for
the treks, since this is a subjective matter. However, we have
classified this trek as strenuous. We will walk approximately six to
nine hours per day. The treks involve several ascents and descents
(some long and steep). Previous experience of hill-walking and
camping in remote areas would be beneficial. While experience in
winter walking and the use of crampons would be beneficial, it is
not a requirement. A grounding in the use of equipment is provided.
Altitude: Not a major
factor on this itinerary, since we do not go above 1500 metres.
Nevertheless, the strong winds which periodically affect Patagonia
during the summer months can make walking much more strenuous.
Climate: [NB This
itinerary takes place within southern Patagonia. Seasonal climate
information below refers specifically to this zone].
May to October
Autumn/winter. Cold and wet. Snow often lying on higher ground.
Proximity of oceans means that temperatures rarely drop below zero
at sea level. Short days. Not suitable for trekking.
November to April
Spring/summer. Average high 14 degrees Celsius, average low 5
degrees Celsius at sea level. Typical feature of the climate here is
strong westerly winds, which lower temperatures significantly.
Weather changeable and localised. In general, the further west, the
wetter and the further east, the drier. Rarely snow lying below 800
metres. Long days. Trekking season.
Visas: British citizens visiting Chile or Argentina currently require no visa. You must have
a passport valid for at least six months after the date of travel.
Non-British passport holders should check their visa requirements
with the Chilean and Argentinean Embassy. All requirements are
subject to change and should be confirmed before departure.
Vaccinations: Please
check with your doctor or travel clinic for latest advice as
requirements are subject to change.
Personal expenses: We
recommend you carry funds in US dollars cash (mixed denomination,
unmarked and undamaged bank notes) and US dollar travellers cheques,
which can be changed in larger towns and typically incur a 5%
commission. Cash cards are also useful as ATM machines are available
in most large towns visited on this itinerary. Credit cards can be
used in some restaurants and for obtaining cash in certain banks.
The cost of the tour
includes all meals while on the trek, but you will need money to
cover: other meals, snacks and drinks (approximately the same price
as Europe); any equipment hire; gifts; airport taxes ($25
international, $10 national); optional excursions; extra entrance
fees; tips; laundry etc.
Flights: We can arrange your flight to El Calafate at competitive
rates through our ATOL-bonded agency. Approximate prices are shown
on the Dates and Prices sheet.
Insurance: Your insurance policy must cover you against medical expenses and repatriation.
Please send us a copy of your policy as soon as possible after
booking.
Luggage & Equipment: You should bring a piece of lockable luggage (eg holdall, kit bag) to be
left at the hostel in El Chalten and Puerto Natales while trekking.
For the main trek you need waterproof walking boots. In Fitzroy you will need a backpack (55-60 litre) which you yourself will
carry. It will contain personal items, sleeping bag and mattrees. In Paine, the bulk of kit and clothing will be
carried by horses apart from days 14 and 15 when you carry all your own kit.
For the Torre glacier
walk you will need: plastic boots or leather boots suitable for
crampons, gaiters, gloves/mittens, 'goggle' sunglasses. Crampons and
harness are provided, as is all non-personal trekking and camping
equipment. Plastic boots can be hired in Chalten. Advise us as early
as possible so that they can be reserved. (Please let us know if
you'd like to be sent a comprehensive equipment list).
Optional extensions: If you would like to spend more time in Argentina, Chile or neighbouring countries we can arrange this for you. Please ask us for details. |
