Polish Glacier Traverse (ACP)

Strenuous expedition
19 days from Mendoza, Argentina

The Polish Glacier Traverse route offers you a 360 view of Aconcagua. You will still endure the demands of this unique mountain, but instead of going up and down one route, you can enjoy stunning and attractive scenery as you ascend one route and descend by another.

This is not a route where you will find technical difficulties or glaciers although it does have the same difficulty as the normal route. It is a little bit longer and, therefore, more demanding physically. Technically, there is only one part of hard snow, where you would usually use crampons, a slope of about 30° and of approximately 200 to 300 mts long.

Experience in the use of crampons and ice axe and crossing crevasses is not a requirement for this route. We take you up the more beautiful Vacas Valley side of the mountain and then return down the normal route, giving you the full 360 degree experience of this unique mountain.

The name Aconcagua appears to have one of two origins. It either derives from the Quechua ‘Ackon Cahuac’, meaning ‘Sentinel of Stone’, or from the Mapuche ‘Aconca Hue’, applied to the river, and meaning ‘Comes from the Other Side’.

The first ascent of Cerro Aconcagua was made in 1897 by the Swiss climber, Mathias Zurbriggen, a member of a British Expedition led by Edward Fitz Gerald.

Itinerary

Cerro Aconcagua (6959 metres) is the highest summit in the western hemisphere. It lies approximately 70° west and 32° south, just within Argentina but only 12 kilometres from the border with Chile.

This alternative 19-day expedition begins in Mendoza, Argentina and then the Aconcagua expedition follows the Vacas Valley route – more beautiful wihth less tourists than the normal route.

This expedition is physically strenuous and a great challenge, with high altitudes and extreme weather conditions making the going tough. However, it is not technically demanding and is suitable for most adventurous people with experience of trekking and camping in remote mountain areas, as well as a good level of physical fitness.

On Aconcagua mules are used to transport food and climbing equipment in to (and to take rubbish out from) the Plaza de Argentinas Base Camp. Group members and guides carry just a day sack to Base Camp, with mules carrying everything else. However, above Base Camp you carry all of your own equipment in a large backpack up and down the mountain. Porters available at extra cost. We normally use a ratio of 1 guide to 3 or 4 clients on Aconcagua as the better the ratio the higher the chances of summit success for all. Group size maximum of 12 - usually around 6 clients and two guides.

Note: For this programme, experience in the use of crampons and ice axe is not a requirement.

Note: There are two buffer days available during this trek to allow for acclimatisation and poor weather. Note also that the estimate of daily hours walked provides a guide only].

Joining the tour

On booking, you will be sent the following information: name and address of Mendoza hotel, and time of rendezvous with guide.

Itinerary details

Note: If circumstances dictate, certain details, such as overnight stops, may vary from those shown in the day-by-day itinerary below.

Day 1 Join the tour in Mendoza, where you will be met at the airport. Our representative will be waiting for you. We drive you to your Hotel in a private vehicle and after you rest, you can meet the guide that will check your equipment. Mendoza is the last place you can buy or rent equipment - it is not always easy to find the things you need at the last minute.

After this, there is a group meeting and later we go to a typical restaurant to enjoy dinner. You get the chance to taste the delicious argentine "asado" (barbequed meat) and wonderful wines from Mendoza. There are numerous alternatives for those who do not drink wine or eat red meats. Dinner in Argentina is usually around 9:00 P.M. Either this evening or tomorrow morning, we’ll sort out our Aconcagua climbing permits. In the evening, we hold a briefing meeting. (1 night hotel).

Day 2 Mendoza to Penitentes. We travel by bus back up to the border with Chile and the small town of Penitentes (2,400m) where we meet up with our mules and drivers. From the city hotel a van drives the group to the Government Offices to obtain individual entrance and ascent permits. You will be personally assisted in this procedure. After this, you are taken along a picturesque road to the start of the trek.

At noon we stop in Uspallata, a beautiful Andean valley where we have lunch in a typical restaurant. After another hour of driving along high mountain roads, we arrive at Villa de Penitentes (2,400m), where we stay at a hotel. In the afternoon, we get the equipment ready for transportation to the base camp, by mule. Dinner.

Day 3 Penitentes to Pampa de Lenas. After a night in Penitentes, we are transported to the entrance of Aconcagua Park, Punta de Vacas. Here the horsemen load the equipment on the mules and we set off for our walk to Base Camp, which takes three days. Today we trek from 4 to 5 hours up to the camp Pampa de Leñas (2,950 m). This is where we present our permits to the park rangers, we meet up with our equipment and we assemble the tents.

Day 4 Pampa de Lenas to Casa de Piedras. We cross a bridge 500 metres upstream from the camp, heading up the east side of the valley on a good and easily followed path to Casa de Piedra (3,200m), our next camp. Here the Relinchos valley joins the main valley. 8 hrs walk approx.

Day 5 Casa de Piedras to Plaza Argentina. From Casa de Piedra, we cross the Rio de las Vacas and continue walking up the Relinchos valley on a good but steep path crossing the Relinchos river twice and following the wide valley to Plaza Argentina, 8 hrs walk approx. Plaza Argentina is our base camp set amongst amongst the moraines of the Relinchos Glacier (4,200 mts).

Day 6, Rest day. At Plaza de Argentina we rest and use the day for acclimatization. This is a good opportunity to get to know the camp, take a shower and explore the area. We get together with the guide, do a medical check, reorganize and review the equipment, prepare the loads, the fuel and food for transportation for the next day.

Day 7 Carry to Camp 1, return to Plaza Argentina. We carry some of our equipment up to the next camp at 5,100m.

Day 8 Rest Day. We dedicate this day to rest and recovering our energy.

Day 9 Move to Camp 1. Today we climb from base camp to camp 1.

Note:: The whole ascent is non-technical. The main difficulties are caused by altitude and, potentially, acute meteorological conditions. We will be very prudent in this regard. Certain signs (e.g. the presence of lenticular clouds, denoting strong winds and changing conditions) could mean abandoning ascent or turning back. There may be a variety of points of view within a group, but the guides' decisions are always final.

Day 10 Carry to Camp 2. We carry some equipment up to the next camp at 5,600m. Return to camp 1.

Day 11 Rest at Camp 1.

Day 12 Move from Camp 1 to Camp 2. We continue to our next camp at 5,900m. This camp is right at the base of the cliffs below the Polish Glacier.

Day 13 Ascent to Camp 3. Today sees us climb for 4 hours to the next camp at around 6,000m. Early morning, after breakfast and breaking camp, we start ascending. The climb is diagonal and towards the right.

Camp 3 is at the same height as the Berlin refuge (on the Normal Route), strategically situated because it is so close to the Normal Route, and for its altitude and shelter from from the wind. From there, we have superb views of the highest peaks around. We place our last high altitude camp here, the guide individually reviews each member of the group and gives his final recommendations. We also plan the final strategy for the last day of ascent to assure success in reaching the summit.

Above 6,400 metres hard snow is sometimes encountered (varies from year to year). It is when you encounter these conditions that the crampons (both step-in or strap-on are OK, depending on boot type & personal preference) and ice axe (walking axe - 60-75 cm long) come into their own. Snow-covered areas tend to be short and intermittent (maybe 150 metres of crampon-wearing at a time) and gradients are typically around 30 degrees. Fixed ropes are not used, and you will rarely be roped up. If at any stage you are very tired or unsure of your footing, a guide may short-rope you (ropes are provided by us). The final 200m of ascent to the summit is on loose scree and is very tiring but not in itself dangerous. Crampons and ice axe might only be used for this one day on Aconcagua.

Day 14 Camp 3 to summit and back to Camp 3. From camp we set off early and join the “normal” route to the summit.

The day begins at 5:00 am. This is the most demanding day of our expedition. We continue north and join the Normal Route at 6,200 m, a point found between the Independence refuge and camp Piedras Blancas. We continue on the Normal Route up to the Independence Refuge (6,500 m). This is normally where we see the first sun rays of the day. We ascend the "Portezuelo del Viento" where we can find strong winds, even on calm days. From here on we pass by the superior part of the Western face and climb "La Canaleta", a 300 m channel that takes us to edge of the summit.

After an hour, we go through the Filo del Guanaco, that leads us to the summit. From the "Filo del Guanaco" we can observe under our feet, the Southern Wall of the Aconcagua, one of the largest walls in the world. We reach the summit of 6,962 m, where the prize is waiting for us, a 360° view. We then descend to camp 3.

Days 15 and 16 Rest days or second attempt on summit.

Day 17 Plaza de Mulas Return to Base Camp. Celebration dinner.

Day 18 Camp 1 to Pampa de Lenas and then down to Punta de Vacas. From here, we transfer you in our minibus back to Mendoza for a farewell dinner and certificate ceremony.

Day 19 Tour ends Mendoza with a transfer to airport/bus station

Practical information From your arrival in Mendoza on day one until departing Mendoza on day 19, an English-speaking guide will be on hand to provide information and iron out any problems. While trekking and climbing you will be accompanied by mountain guides. Typically, our ratio is one guide to 3 or 4 clients on Aconcagua, as the better the ratio the higher the chances of summit success for all. On Aconcagua mules are used to transport food and climbing equipment to Plaza de Argentinas base camp, but beyond here group members and guides carry their own equipment, as well as some of the communal camping gear and food, up and down the mountain. Obviously, a very good level of fitness is necessary.

You may also be called upon to assist guides in meal preparation. In the mountains, we camp using two-person mountain tents. In towns we use clean, comfortable hostels.

Fitness and experience To get the most out of this expedition you should be in very good physical condition. Aconcagua is a long and tiring climb. Grading the fitness level required for this expedition is a subjective matter, but we can safely classify it as very strenuous. We suggest you talk to your doctor if you are in any doubt as to your physical capability. We will walk approximately five to eight hours per day (occasionally more), at times carrying personal luggage, plus some camping equipment, at high altitudes. The two climbs involve several ascents and descents (often long and steep). They also involve short periods on snow and ice. Previous experience of hill walking and camping in remote areas is recommended for this expedition. While experience in winter walking and the use of crampons would be beneficial, it is not a requirement. A grounding in the use of equipment is provided.

Altitude: This is a major factor on this itinerary. Aconcagua is a big mountain and demands respect. We have been careful to build in plenty of time for acclimatisation when putting together the trip. Our guides are experienced high altitude mountaineers, with an in-depth knowledge of the potential dangers inherent in high altitude trekking.

Climate

This itinerary takes place within a narrow band of latitudes (32° to 34° south), but covers a very wide range of altitudes. It also traverses many geographic and climatic zones, from the sun-baked streets of Santiago and Mendoza (both just a few hundred metres above sea level) to Cerro Aconcagua (6,959 metres), on whose upper slopes extreme cold and winds are the norm. (N.B. All CA departures coincide with the southern hemisphere summer. Text below refers to this season).

The Andes: Much of this itinerary takes place above 4,000 metres, and extended periods are spent above 5,000m.

Climatic conditions in the Central High Andes of Chile and Argentina usually originate in the Pacific Ocean anticyclone. The humid westerly air currents that it sends inland collide with the Andes and, from time to time, bring severe conditions. Cerro Aconcagua, due to its great altitude and bulk, is especially susceptible, and periodically its upper slopes (above 5,200m) get buffeted by 150kph winds. Such conditions will often create a vast lenticular cloud above the summit. Even when the conditions at Plaza de Mulas camp (4,200m) appear fine and windless, the presence of this cloud formation signifies strong winds, extreme cold and snowstorms high on the mountain. It is also a sign that the upper mountain should be abandoned.

Summer temperatures of minus 30°C high on Aconcagua are not unusual. Just before dawn at our high camps in-tent temperatures commonly reach minus 15 or minus 20°C, and near the summit, wind chill can lower temperatures to minus 40°C. Very high up on Aconcagua, temperatures never get very high. Even at base camp (4,200m), rare southerly winds sometimes bring temperatures of minus 18°C. Severe electrical storms are another (occasional) summer phenomenon, and should not be underestimated.

Nevertheless, summer days and nights on Aconcagua can also be relatively tame. On still days at noon, it might be possible to hang around base camp in a bathing suit! On particularly benign, windless days, it is sometimes feasible to stand on Aconcagua’s summit at noon wearing only a few layers. The fickle - and often localised - nature of Aconcagua’s climate, means nothing should be taken for granted. Frostbite and hypothermia are risks for the under-equipped mountaineer; it is important to pack for the worst conditions.

On the lower slopes of Aconcagua conditions are less extreme and unpredictable, but nevertheless prone to fickleness. Below 4,200m, afternoons are generally warm with a lot of sunshine. On Aconcagua, the sun is extremely strong and burns very quickly. At lower camps on Aconcagua (around 3,300m) days are warm to hot and nights, cool to cold. At base camp, Aconcagua (around 4,200m) expect warm days and freezing nights. Note that at altitude, temperatures vary sharply between sun and shade and between sheltered and exposed ground. Also with height gain and loss.

Santiago and Mendoza : Climatic conditions in these cities (visited before, between and after expeditions) are very different to those in the high Andes. Summer temperatures in these cities are usually very warm or hot (expect lows of 17 and highs of 35°C). Here, lightweight summer clothing is ideal.

Visas

British citizens visiting Chile and Argentina currently require no visa. Your passport must be valid for at least six months after the date of travel. Non-British passport holders should check their visa requirements with their Chilean and Argentine Consulate. All requirements are subject to change and should be confirmed before departure.

Personal Expenditure

For this expedition, we recommend you carry your funds in US dollars cash (in mixed-denomination, unmarked and undamaged bank notes) and US dollar travellers’ cheques (Note: It can be difficult to change outside banking hours and typically incur a 3-5% commission). An ATM cash card is very handy, with many hole-in-the-wall machines available in Santiago & Mendoza. A credit card is useful to bring as back-up. The cost of the tour includes all meals while on expedition. You will need money to cover: Aconcagua climbing permit (US$120 mid season / US$ 200 high season), other meals, snacks and drinks (approximately the same price as Europe), tipping, any equipment hire, airport taxes ($25 international), any optional excursions and any other personal expenditure (e.g. laundry, gifts etc).

Flights

We can arrange (or assist with) your flight to Santiago/Mendoza at competitive rates through our ATOL-bonded agency. Approximate prices are shown on the Dates and Prices sheet sent with the brochure.

Insurance

Your insurance policy must cover you against medical expenses and repatriation. Please ensure it covers all activities you will be participating in. We ask that you send us a copy of your policy as soon as possible after booking.

Visas: British citizens visiting Chile and Argentina currently require no visa. You must have a passport valid for at least six months after the date of travel. Non-British passport holders should check their visa requirements with the Chilean and Argentinean Embassy. All requirements are subject to change and should be confirmed before departure.

Vaccinations: Please check with your doctor or travel clinic for latest advice as requirements are subject to change.

Personal expenses: We recommend you carry funds in US dollars cash (mixed denomination, unmarked and undamaged bank notes) and US dollar travellers cheques, which can be changed in the large towns and typically incur a 5% commission. Cash cards are very useful as hole-in-the-wall machines are available in Santiago and Mendoza. Credit cards can be used in some restaurants and for obtaining cash in some banks.

The cost of the tour includes all meals while on the trek, but you will need money to cover: Aconcagua climbing permit (US$200); other meals, snacks and drinks (approximately the same price as Europe); any equipment hire; gifts; airport taxes ($25 international); optional excursions; tips; laundry etc.

Flights: We can arrange (or assist with) your flight to Mendoza or Santiago at competitive rates through our ATOL-bonded agency. Approximate prices are shown on the Dates and Prices sheet sent with the brochure.
Insurance Your insurance policy must cover you against medical expenses and repatriation. Please ensure it covers all activities you will be participating in and we ask that you send us a copy of your policy as soon as possible after booking.

Luggage & Equipment: You should bring a piece of lockable luggage (eg holdall or kit bag) to be left at the hostel in Santiago while trekking. For the main trek you will need to re-pack into a rucksack (80-90 litre) which you yourself will carry. For the climbs you will need: plastic boots suitable for crampons, crampons, sleeping bag (-20 deg C), camping mat (if Therm-a rest style), gaiters, headlamp, harness, good quality thermal underwear, polar fleece jacket and pants, goretex-type jacket (with hood) and overpants/saloppettes, down jacket, thin polypropelene gloves, mittens and goretex overmittens, balaclava, ski-poles, bandanna, good glacier sunglasses, head-torch.
All non-personal trekking and camping equipment is provided.

Some of the above (eg plastic boots) can be hired locally. Advise us as early as possible so that items can be reserved. (Please let us know if you'd like to be sent a comprehensive equipment list).

Optional extensions: If you want to spend more time in South America, whether a high altitude train journey in Peru or Bolivia, a 5-9 day jungle expedition in Peru's Manu Reserve, or a spectacular trek in another part of the Andes, please get in touch.

Facts and figures Argentina

Population: 34.5 million, the vast majority of European origin. Important Middle-Eastern and Japanese minorities. About 15% of the population is mestizo. Of the 200 thousand Indians, many live in northern Patagonia.

Capital City: Buenos Aires, pop approx 11 million.

Geography: With 2.78 million square kilometres, Argentina is the second largest country in South America.

Economy: GNP US$ 244 billion. Highest per capita income in South America. Wealth traditionally from farming, but today it accounts for only 6% of GNP. Over half of export earnings from farming and food processing. Surplus of oil, natural gas and hydroelectricity.