We trek through the heart of the Chachapoyas realm, exploring untouched mountain fortresses set amongst superb Andean scenery. These are sites rarely visited by the area's locals, never mind foreigner tourists.
Exciting, varied archeology and breathtaking Andean countryside await for those prepared to bear long journeys on bumpy roads and basic conditions.
This adventure takes you through the Andes and its hidden treasures, There are the amazingly preserved 800-year-old mummies: Cliff top tombs: Horse-supported treks to the remote hidden hilltop strongholds of the Chachapoyas; High mountain passes and then a descent into the steaming cloudforest of Pusac.
Background
Chachapoyas is the capital of the department of Amazonas, situated in the northeast of Peru. It is a remote area of sub-tropical valleys, half way down the eastern slopes of the Andes with vegetation typical of ceja de selva (eyebrow of the jungle). The jungle is impenetrable, dense with low trees, bromeliads, bamboos, orchids and mosses.
Despite its remoteness Chachapoyas is becoming increasingly popular with travellers. They come to see the archaeological remains of Kuélap, and the other amazing remains from the prehispanic Chachapoya culture. They have somehow survived in apparently unsuitable surroundings.
Cliff top living
Amazonas was the seat of the Chachapoya culture. It later became a part of the Inca Empire under Inca Túpac Yupanqui, and was then conquered by the Spanish.
The Chachapoya culture developed in this area around AD800. There is evidence that people lived in villages of up to several hundred people, in circular houses. We visit the sites of this culture, where nature has grown over the ruins to make a fascinating preservation site.
Archaeologists have found tombs on inaccessible cliff tops, and ancient agricultural terraces. The Chachapoya lived in small independent groups, fighting each other for resources. They built their cities on ridges in the cloud forest, and put their dead in cliff top mausoleums together with ceramics, textiles and other objects from their culture.
We also offer two longer treks: The Vira Vira trek, or a stunning trek on the fabled Qapaq Ñan Inca Highway.
Outline itinerary – day 1
Fly Lima-Chiclayo and transfer to Chachapoyas OR Start in Chachapoyas. We take a short flight from Lima to Chiclayo airport and then travel for 9 to 10 hours through some of Peru’s most varied and scenic landscapes. There is plenty of opportunity to photograph the desert, mountains and rivers we pass. On arrival, we transfer you to your hotel and prepare for our trip.
Day 2 - Karajia
We drive northwest up the other side of the Utcubamba Canyon for three hours to the traditional village of Luya. We make it to the village of Karajia and desent 20 minutes down a farm track to access the spectacular sarcophagi of Karajia. Here are six, 2.5- meter-tall effigies placed in seemingly inaccessible cliff shelves.
These strikingly decorated statues – built over 800 years ago – once held the mummies of Chachapoyan nobility and today stare out stoically across a pretty valley and towards the rising sun. Returning to our transport we return to the Utcubamba River and head south to El Chillo, a converted hacienda and here stay the night. (B, L, D)
Day 3 - Chillo/Kuelap/Leimebamba
After breakfast, we drive to the fortress of Kuelap (1.5 hours) – the jewel in the massive archaeological crown of the Chachapoyas Cloud People.
The mystical structure of Kuelap – dubbed the Peru’s second Machu Picchu by locals - is 1,200 years old. It features massive limestone walls towering 60 feet. A day of exploring yields pottery, bones and hundreds of mysterious round stone structures and it compares well with it’s country’s more famous archeological wonder.
We have lunch at the ruins and board our private transport and once again drive to the Utcubamba river which we follow upstream to the sleepy village of Leimebamba. We spend the night at a hotel in this quiet place. (B, L, D).
Day 4 - Leimebamba to Tajopampa (6 hours trekking)
After breakfast we visit Peru's brand new Centro Mallqui Museum. The Austrians donated the museum to house the mummies found in a unique discovery of 219 mummies in 1997, in the nearby Laguna de los Cóndores. It was the most important archaeological find in the Andes in the last 20 years.
After a tour, we start our trek. We follow a beautiful forested gorge carved out by the Atuen River.
The trail follows a well-preserved Inca road for three and half-hour to four hours. The path is good in the dry season (May-Sept) but very muddy in the wet season (Nov-Jan).
Taking a side valley we make a short climb up to Tajopampa, a lonely farmstead surrounded by ruins and mountains. This is a cold night and you have the option of sleeping in tents or in the house. (B, L, D)
Day 5 - Monte Viudo (4 hours trekking Viudo only, 6 hours including ridge walk)
Across the valley from Tajopampa is the little visited ruins of Monte Viudo (2 hours, steep up hill) which demonstrate the decorative stone work at a typical location of the Chachapoyas. These ruins are still hidden by cloud forest – effectively lost for 500 years. The sweaty ascent is worthwhile as your guide may need to machete the fast-growing trees to cut your path to these amazingly preserved ruins.
Another superb panoramic view and an easy ridge walk leads us back to Tajopampa. (B, L, D).
Day 6 - Diablo Huasi and Tambo Lagunas (8 hours trekking)
Close to Tajopampa are the cliff tombs of La Petaca and Diablo Huasi. These are situated high up on unclimable cliffs of which every ledge seems to have a building or pictograph. It is anybody’s guess how the ancient people managed to put their dead in such a place.
We carry on to our pass at 3900m overlooking a lake. The trail descends steeply to the lake and leads on to Tambo Lagunas, an inca way station with a large sacred rock. Here we spend the night. (B, L, D).
Day 7 - Tambo Lagunas to Cochabamba and Opaban (8 hours trekking)
The trail descends from our camp, first through stunted trees and later cloud forest. The path is enclosed by pristine cloud forest, teeming with butterflies, birds and flowers, until we reach the village of Cochabamba (8600ft, 2,600m).
It's a short climb into the village of Cochabamba. Cochabamba was an important Inca site, second only to Cusco in its heyday. Little evidence remains apart from an enormous man-made lake, which the Incas used for bathing, fishing and drinking water. Many Inca stones have been used by successive generations to build houses and walls and can be seen all over the village. The surrounding area is teeming with Inca ruins and history but is protected from investigation by the government. There are still some superb Inca baths and gateways to see before the sun sets.
Then we head down further to the river and the main Pusac trail. This takes us on to Opaban where we spend the night. (B, L, D).
Day 8 - Opaban/Pusac/Cajamarca (2 hours trekking)
We leave Opaban after breakfast and continue our descent down towards the hot, dry valley of the Marañon.
Our destination is the small town of Pusac, located at 1,100m above sea level. Here we will have time to cool off in the river and unload the horses before out private transport will take us to Cajamarca (8 hours).
This is an infamous trip on winding Andes’ roads. It takes us down to 800m and back up to 3800m before dropping down to the beautiful colonial city of Cajamarca (2,600m) and to your hotel for the night. Hostal Portal de Marques (B, L)
You could extend your trip by trekking the Inca Trail or visiting the Amazon.
Check out our Peru group trips, or our many tailor made Peru options. You can always contact the office for more information on tailor made and group options.
What’s included:
Private transport from Tarapoto to Chachapoyas, excursions listed and Pusac-Cajamarca transfer, Hotels and hostals as listed, entrance fees and archaeological taxes, support personnel including cook and horses during the 5 day trek, meals as listed, bilingual guide, camping equipment, transfers as listed.
Not included:
Internal flights (we can provide these – at £120 per person total approx. depending on route availability and prices at the time) , tips, alcoholic beverages with meals, sleeping bag, excursions in Cajamarca, airport taxes ($5 domestic), insurance, international flights, personal items and clothing.
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