Inca Trail to Machu Picchu
The Inca Trail is deservedly the most famous footpath in South America. It has everything: gorgeous mountain scenery, cloudforest and lush sub-tropical vegetation with numerous species of flowers, a stunning destination (Machu Picchu) and, above all, the Inca remains that give the trail its name.
The Vilcabamba range, approximately 85km long, is a really spectacular part of the Andes, located northwest of Cusco, between the Apurímac and Urubamba rivers. Several giant snow covered peaks rise out of the Vilcabamba massif, often clearly visible from the Lima to Cusco flight (sit on the left side of the plane) and also from the drive between Cusco and the start of the Inca Trail.
Salkantay (6,271m / 20,575ft) is the highest peak in the area, towering above all others. This mountain was highly revered by the Incas and is still very important to the people living in the Cusco area. Its name in Quechua means “wild mountain”. The other big snow covered mountain you see is Pumasillo (6075m), west of Machu Picchu and highest peak in the mini Sacsarayoc Range, seen from the second pass on the Inca Trail.
Inca history
Typical of the region is the verdant cloud forest of the rugged eastern side of the Vilcabamba mountains and the deep gorges of the Apurímac and Urubamba. They’ve been gouged out of granite by centuries of torrents of glacier melt water forcing their way north and eastwards on the way to the rainforest.
The area is rich in Inca history: for nearly 50 years this remote region served as a hideout for their resistance movement as it tried to regain control from the Spanish invaders in the 16th century. The Incas left behind many ceremonial platforms, gate houses (tambos) and a network of beautifully constructed pathways linking their strongholds, the well known Machu Picchu, and lesser known but equally important sites such as Choquequirau and Espiritu Pampa.
Please contact the office for more information of these or other treks.
Detailed itinerary
Day 1: Transfer from Cusco, trek to Huayllabamba (12km trek)
We pick you up early from your hotel in Cusco. After picking up all other trekkers you travel by bus, via the highland villages of Chinchero, Urubamba and Ollantaytambo, for the 3 hour journey to the start of the Inca Trail.
From the road there are great views of the Cordillera Urubamba mountain range and the snow capped peak of Veronica 5860m.
Most of our groups have up to 16 trekkers with one main English speaking guide and an assistant guide. Trekkers come from all over the world, and are of all ages.
At Chilca, where we start the trek, you walk down to the entrance, where your tickets are checked. Sign in, cross the bridge and make a left turn following the trail gently along the river bank until uphill we reach a eucalyptus grove and Llactapata - the first major ruins on the route. Vast retaining walls have converted the steeply sloping hillside into agricultural terraces: an amazing sight.
Just below Llactapata the Río Cusichaca, a tributary of the Urubamba, takes a spectacular plunge into the ground and runs through a subterranean channel for some way. The trail climbs steeply out of the ruins over a low pass, and the hike up the valley begins.
After about an hour you’ll reach a bridge, putting you on the other side of the valley, and will continue on to the village of Huayllabamba (3,000m). You will reach it in a further half hour. By this time it is likely to be very hot and you will welcome the cold drinks at the village which makes its living out of Inca Trail hikers. First night camp with basic facilities.
Day 2: Huayllabamba to Pacamayo (12km)
At Huayllabamba the trail turns right (northwest) up the Llullucha valley. After walking steeply upwards for about 11/2 hours you will drop down to a grassy clearing, popularly known as The Forks.
The path then enters woods – first scrub, then very beautiful cloudforest where the trees are hung with moss. These fairy-tale woods will help keep your mind off the fact that you are still going steeply uphill with no sign of respite. Eventually, however, the trees become more stunted and you emerge into a meadow, Llulluchapampa. From The Forks to the meadow is about 2 hours. This is the last campsite before the pass, aptly named (if you are a female hiker) Abra de Huarmihuañusqa, ‘Dead Woman’s Pass’ (4,198m), which you can see ahead of you.
It will take you about 11/2 hours to climb to the top of the pass. This is the highest point on the trail, so take heart – if you survive this, you’ll survive the other passes. Take time to look around you. You should be able to pick out the circular ruins of Runkuracay ahead, just below the next pass. The descent is steep but not difficult. Just follow the trail on the left side of the valley to the valley floor and the next designated campsite at Pacamayo (3,600m). Nearby are some huts with basic toilets and sinks built by the INC.
Day 3: Pacamayo to Wiñay Wayna (15km).
From the valley floor it will take you about an hour to reach the next set of Inca ruins. Runkuracay, a ruin not, perhaps, very impressive in itself, but occupying a commanding position overlooking the valley, and at the end of a series of rock-hewn steps that at last give you a feeling that you are on the trail of the Incas. From Runkuracay the path is clear over the second pass (Abra de Runkuracay, 4,000m) and, excitingly, much of the time you are on Inca steps. The descent down the steps is steep, so take care.
Just before the trail turns right, you’ll see the sign for Sayacmarca. These ruins lie about an hour from the top of the pass and the name, which means ‘the Inaccessible or Secret City’, is apt. You approach Sayacmarca up a superbly designed stone staircase. This is a diversion (the main trail continues its gradual descent to the right) but don’t let fatigue persuade you to miss it.
Like so many Inca ruins, no one really knows the purpose of Sayacmarca, but these are the visible facts: it was built on a precipice commanding a spacious view; there are no agricultural terraces so the complex could not have supported many inhabitants; ritual baths and an aqueduct run round the outside of the main wall; there are curious stone rings set in the wall by trapezoid openings. For us the mystery adds to the beauty, and it is beauty all the way from here – if you are fortunate with the weather.
The trail continues down to the valley floor. From here it becomes a glorious Inca Road, being on a raised causeway over marshy ground that then rises up through cloudforest. Stone paving on raised stone foundations, steps and a gentle gradient make for easy walking, and even if it is raining (and it often is) you will marvel at the Inca workmanship.
Before the climb to the third pass there is a campsite with basic toilets. During the ascent you climb through two Inca tunnels, and if it is a clear day you will have the added bonus of a view of Salkantay over to your left. The pass (3,700m) is used as a campsite, but it gets crowded and water is some way below. Just below the pass, about 2 hours from Sayacmarca, are the impressive ruins of Phuyupatamarca. Access is down a steep flight of stairs. Clear water runs through the channels cut into the rock that feed five baths, leading one from the other down the hill.
An Inca staircase leads from the west side of the ruins (the far end from the baths) and disappears into the jungle, leading you down a thousand steps. Literally. You’ll think that your knees will never feel the same again.
The trek comes at the hostel nearby the ruins of Huiñay Huayna (Wiñay Wayna). This is the last camping spot before Machu Picchu and it is often very full. Basic camping facilities. There is a small restaurant. Beer! This is also the last place to fill up with water before Machu Picchu itself.
Huiñay Huayna lies just below the hostel round to the right as you are descending, and is the most extensive of the ruins so far. It has some beautiful stonework, a fantastic location, and an air of mystery often lacking in the crowded Machu Picchu ruins.
Day 4: Huiñay Huayna to Machu Picchu (5km), train to Cusco or hotel in Aguas Calientes
The trail from the hostel to Machu Picchu (11/2 hours away) is clearly marked. Most people have a very early start as they try to leave Wiñay Wayna by 5.30am so they can get to Machu Picchu before sunrise. The sky starts getting light by 6am and the first rays of the sun reach Machu Picchu around 7am. The trail contours a mountainside and disappears into cloudforest full of begonias, bromeliads and tree ferns, before coming to a steep flight of stairs leading up to the first Inca gate. The path continues to the main gate, Intipunku – ‘the Gateway of the Sun’ – and suddenly the whole of Machu Picchu is spread out before you. A magical moment.
When we arrive there is plenty of time to take photos of Machu Picchu. We walk down through the site to the main entrance where you can safely leave your backpacks. You can also use the toilet and have a drink in the restaurant just outside the entrance. We head back into the site for a complete tour of the major sectors of Machu Picchu. The tour takes about 2 hours so by about mid-morning you'll be free to continue to explore the ruins alone.
The train back to Cusco leaves from Aguas Calientes, the nearest village to the ruins of Machu Picchu, at approximately 16:30 and you get back into Cusco for about 21:00.
We suggest that after visiting Machu Picchu you take the bus down to Aguas Calientes at 15:30 at the latest (assuming train departs at 16:30). Buses depart every 15 minutes. Check with the guide for actual times. This leaves you plenty of time at the site or to do one of the other walks nearby (see below for suggestions).
There are many restaurants in Aguas Calientes to satisfy all tastes and budgets. Of course you could also visit the hot springs that Agues Calientes is named for, which will help ease those aching muscles. Entrance to the springs costs US$2, and you should allow a couple of hours to fully enjoy them.
Please note:
We include the hiring of a personal porter (one between three) to help you carry your personal items such as clothes, sleeping bag etc. This will allow you to enjoy the walk even more. You need to take a (duffel) bag - preferably lockable - for the items you want the porter to carry for you. This MUST be waterproof – or pack your things inside plastic bags. Keep the weight to 6 kgs per person - porters carry a total of 18kgs.
Vegetarian meals available if you let us know in advance.
An extra night in Aguas Calientes can easily be arranged for you if required. Hotels costs and costs associated with returning to Machu Picchu the following day are additional.
Included
Collection from Cusco hotel on the first morning, bus to the start of the trek, Inca Trail & Machu Picchu entrance fees, English speaking guide (guide and assistant for groups of more than 10 people), tents - 2 person, sleeping mat, cooking equipment, a cook, meals (whilst on trek), dining tent, accommodation for the porters and cooks, first aid kit, bus from Machu Picchu ruins down to Aguas Calientes, tourist train ticket from Aguas Calientes to Cusco.
Not included
Breakfast on the first morning, lunch and dinner on day 4, meals on day 5 (if this option is taken) entrance ticket to the hot springs in Aguas Calientes, second day entrance tickets and second day bus tickets to Machu Picchu (if you are staying on an extra day). Note: Sleeping bags can be hired in the Cusco office.
Responsible Tourism
Andean Trails actively supports several community projects in Peru. We operate the Inca Trail together with a Cusco company, owned and managed locally.
On the Inca Trail we employ local staff, who are paid fair wages. We provide free life insurance to all of our porters. Tented accommodation and meals are provided for all trekking staff as well as foam mats and good quality sleeping bags, rain ponchos and fleece waistcoats. We have also provided them all with trekking shoes. Our porters carry a maximum of only 20kg. We have backpacks with a special metal frame and we issue every porter with a back supports.
Clean burning fuel is used to cook the meals on the Inca Trail and porters carry gas stoves and butane bottles. We supply a small bar of biodegrable soap for every tourist and use biodegradable detergents when washing the cooking and eating utensils. If any part of our tour or trek is operated by another company, we try to ensure that high standards are maintained.
Our additional support helps buy Christmas gifts for children from the poorest communities in the district of Cusco.
Extra information
Luggage
Any equipment that you are not going to need on the trek can be stored safely in your hotel. Don’t leave items of value with your bags, put them in the hotel safe and obtain an itemized receipt. Best put items such as credit cards inside a sealed, signed envelope for extra peace of mind.
On the final morning of the trek your porter will take your bags directly to Aguas Calientes and wait for you in a restaurant. After visiting Machu Picchu you can pick up your bags from the restaurant. Your personal porter will be waiting for you to give you your bags. If you used one of our office bags then your porter will take the duffle bags off you (and return them to our office) and, in exchange, give you a large disposable rice sack into which you will have to transfer your items to bring back to Cusco. This will give you a chance to check that all of your items are in order. If you have any problems please bring it to the attention of the guide immediately.
Altitude sickness
The most common cause of sickness on the Inca Trail is dehydration. Physical exercise, hot sunshine and dry high altitude air all combine to cause you to lose fluids rapidly. Take a water bottle (1.5 litre capacity) and water purification tablets and ensure that you drink plenty, possibly 4-5 litres per day. At meals times we’ll provide you with tea, mate, coffee etc but you’ll need plenty more besides. When you go to the toilet check the colour of your urine. If it is clear like water then you’re fine but if it is dark yellow then you are dehydrated and need to drink more. Extremes of temperature can also lead to sickness. Try to stay out of the sun as much as possible. Use a sun hat and sun cream and protect the back of your neck. Walking in shorts and t-shirt is fine but if you find yourself waiting on other group members then try to wait in the shade. When the sun goes in the temperature can drop quickly so always have a sweater to hand. When you get in to camp start to put on more clothes and keep warm.
When trekking at altitude the secret is not to overstrain yourself since you don’t make such a rapid
recovery upon resting as you may at sea-level. Instead, try to make the trek in small, manageable sections. Listen to your heart rate and when it feels as if your heart is going to jump straight out of your chest it’s a sure sign to stop and rest for a few minutes until it returns to normal. Make frequent rests and take your time to enjoy the scenery – it’s not a race and no one will leave you behind!
Water on the Trail
You'll come across a small stream or spring every 1½ hours along the trail where you can fill up your water bottle. Although the water is clear always use sterilizing tablets and follow the instructions. The sterilizing tablets 'MicroPur' can be bought in most pharmacies in Cusco (the further away from the plaza the cheaper they are). With these tablets you have to wait 40 minutes before drinking. After putting the purification tablet in your water bottle wait 15 minutes and then turn your bottle upside down and loosen the cap so a trickle of water runs out. This will ensure that the neck of the bottle is also fully sterilized. Bottled mineral water can also be taken from Cusco, bought at km82, just before Wayllabamba and at Wiñay Wayna and Machu Picchu.
Toilet facilities on the trek
All of the campsites that we use have a toilet block with running water. Facilities have improved a lot on the Inca Trail in the last two years. If you do need to go the toilet when there aren’t any toilets then do so well away from the trail and water supplies; dig a hole, or cover your faeces with a rock, and take the paper with you in a bag to deposit in one of the several bins along the way. There are hot shower facilities at Wiñay Wayna on day 3 although the facilities are more than basic and most people wait until the thermal springs in Aguas Calientes (showers prior to entering the springs) or their hotel in Cusco.
Safety (steep drops)
The Inca Trail is a mountainous trek. Although there are no parts were you have to resort to climbing on all fours there are a few sections that hug the mountainside with steep drops at the side of the trail. There are no handrails or fences so you must exercise caution. If overtaking fellow trekkers in these sections let them know that you are passing especially on the narrow sections. If you are the slow one then stop regularly to let others pass. Try to be patient and if you have children with you make sure that they are at your side at all times.
Machu Picchu Rules and Regulations
Don’t throw rubbish along the trail. Take your rubbish with you and deposit it in official bins at the campsites. Don’t pick wild flowers or hunt animals and birds. Campfires are not allowed anywhere in the Sanctuary. Tour companies now have to cook with gas and not with kerosene. Smoking on the trail is banned apart from designated locations at the campsites. This ban follows several large fires caused by carelessly discarded cigarette butts. Don’t take any Inca stones away with you as souvenirs!
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