Peru Climbing & Mountaineering Course

Duration:6 days

From: £1,502

From: $2,000

Capacity: 16

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28 years experience

Our Peru climbing course gives climbers skills and techniques to climb peaks.

Tour highlights

  • Learn climbing techniques and equip yourself to tackle Andean peaks.
  • Climb an ice-clad mountain at the end of the course.
  • Superb guides ensure you learn safely, thoroughly and how to climb well in the future.
  • Wonderful challenge in a beautiful mountain area make this a truly memorable tour.

Itinerary for Peru Climbing & Mountaineering Course

Overview

  • Day 1 Day 1: Drive 2 hours from Huaraz to trail, 2 hour trek to basecamp at 4,950m. Review kit (L,D)
  • Day 2 Day 2: Trial climbs, belay (B,L,D)
  • Day 3 Day 3: Crevasse rescue (B,L,D)
  • Day 4 Day 4: Final practice, plan summit attempt (B,L,D)
  • Day 5 Day 5: Summit attempt, Yanapaqcha, return to basecamp (B,L,D)
  • Day 6 Day 6: Hike out, return to Huaraz (B)

Day 1: Drive 2 hours from Huaraz to trail, 2 hour trek to basecamp at 4,950m. Review kit (L,D)

We leave Huaraz at 08:00 and drive for a couple of hours up the Llanganuco valley to the popular Cebolla Pampa trail head. This is the entrance point for the Pisco climb and also the Laguna 69 trek. Yanapaqcha (5,460m/17,913ft) sits at the head of the same valley.

A couple hours hiking from here will bring you to the basecamp for the course and climb, situated at the foot of the Yanapaqcha glacier and next to a beautiful alpine lake at 4,950m/16,240ft. You need to be very well acclimatised before starting this climbing course as we will be sleeping at this height.

Some preliminary skills will be presented this first afternoon after camp is set and an orientation to the area has been given.

We begin our course by introducing the gear and the art of mountaineering. During this 40-minute talk we explore the different dangers associated with the world of mountains. Following that, participants will learn the three different knots needed during the day.

Walking with crampons is next and practiced right there on the ice, followed by a lunch and an explanation of how glaciers are formed. We then head up on the glacier to a good steep slope where we practice the art of self-arrest, rope team travel and snow anchors. At 5.00 p.m. we stop for the day and descend to our camp for a hot drink, dinner and some sleep.

Day 2: Trial climbs, belay (B,L,D)

We wake at 06:30 and the day starts in earnest at 8:00, prepared for a day on the glacier.

It’s about a 30 minutes hike up to the ice and we begin with practical skills including walking with crampons, kicking steps/following tracks, using an ice axe to walk and self belay, self-arrest, team arrest, rope team travel techniques, and snow/ice anchors.

Around 16:30, we wrap things up up for the day and descend back to camp for a hot drink, a delicious dinner and some sleep.

Day 3: Crevasse rescue (B,L,D)

Breakfast is at 07:00 and class begins at 8:00 today.

We spend the morning in campsite learning belay systems, equalized anchors, and haul systems – all components of the crevasse rescue system, which we delve into right before lunch.

After thoroughly understanding the system on ‘dry’ land, we then return to the glacier around 13:00pm where we put our new skills to the test on the snow and at the edge of a live crevasse.

The entire afternoon is dedicated to the practice of this important skill, “crevasse rescue,” which is a common hazard of all glaciated climbs.

We’ll return to camp at about 17:30, have dinner, and sleep.

Day 4: Final practice, plan summit attempt (B,L,D)

We leave campsite at 07:30 and head up to the ice to practice various techniques and scenarios of glacier travel.

Participants take charge of their rope teams using the skills learned in the previous two days and are presented with problems to solve pertaining to terrain, hazards, group management, etc.

We wander through crevasse fields and up/down steep slopes where both running and fixed belays will be used. At some point during the day, a surprise crevasse rescue will be performed. Around 11:00 we arrive at an ice wall where you learn a top-rope anchor system, set up an ice climb, and spend a few hours climbing.

Basic climbing technique is discussed as well as lead climbing if there is interest. Around 14:30, a pre-summit discussion will take place and plans will begin for the following days climbing objective. Participants will determine what needs to be done in preparation for the climb (route, equipment prep, rope team divisions, food & water prep) and divide up the responsibilities amongst themselves. Dinner will be served around 17:00 and everyone will get to sleep early in anticipation of the next day’s climb.

Day 5: Summit attempt, Yanapaqcha, return to basecamp (B,L,D)

Rise and shine about 03:00 for breakfast and gearing up for the climb.

We head up to the glacier and begin the summit attempt in your rope team(s). Depending upon snow conditions, weather, and team health/fitness, the summit of Yanapaqcha can be reached in 4-6 hours. At the top, you can enjoy the feeling of bagging the peak and the stunning views from atop.

The descent will take 3-4 hours and you should be back in camp by mid afternoon for a warm lunch and some rest.

Those who wish to continue with skills can head back up to the glacier or to a location where the instructor(s) can work on anything participants are still wanting to learn/practice.

Day 6: Hike out, return to Huaraz (B)

We hike out to the road to meet the pick-up vehicle and drive the 2 hours back to Huaraz, where you are dropped off at your hotel (hotel not included).

These magnificent peaks and glaciers are simply a wonderful place to learn to mountaineer.
Kathy Jarvis

Dates & Prices

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20 Jul 202725 Jul 20276$2000Check availability
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18 Sep 202723 Sep 20276$2000Check availability
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2 Oct 20277 Oct 20276$2000Check availability
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Available dates & prices

From: $2,000

(£1,502)

  • Guide price per person
  • Based on minimum of three
  • Ask for prices for smaller groups
  • Extensions & acclimatisation walks available

What's included?

  • Private transport to & from trail head
  • Instructors (max ratio of 3 to 1)
  • Tents
  • Cooking equipment & cook
  • All meals (bring your own snacks)
  • Group technical kit: ropes
  • Snow stakes
  • Snow screws
  • Technical ice axes
  • Sleeping mat
  • Tents and dining equipment

What's not included?

  • Flights
  • Lima or Huaraz services (we can help to look for these)
  • All snacks in between meals
  • Gaiters
  • Insurance
  • Tips
  • Personal items/clothing
  • Personal technical gear as follows: harness & karabiners
  • Prussic loops
  • Harness
  • Helmet
  • Crampons
  • Axes
  • Sleeping bag
  • Mountaineering boots
  • Alcoholic or soft drinks

Accommodation

Camping, five nights – we use top quality, high mountain, two-man tents.

To get the most out of this expedition you should be in very good physical condition. We suggest you talk to your doctor if you are in any doubt as to your physical capability.

Any previous wild camping and winter experience are a plus, but experience in crampon and ice axe use is not essential as your guide will be teaching you the skills you need.

You will carry your own kit as well as some group kit, so expect a backpack to weigh between 15 and 25kg, depending on how much you take in. Your return backpack should be lighter as there will be less food to carry. Expect to get involved in all aspects of camping as every part of the course is part of the mountaineering lesson.

Summit day you wake very early, around 0300, to maximise summit chances.

Vegetarians and many other dietary requirements are catered for without problems. Please let us know in advance of any requirements you have.

You wake early, usually around 0700. Breakfast is served in a dining tent, and consists of hot drinks, porridge, toast, jams and bread, and your guide will explain the day’s trekking plans.

Lunch is usually around 1300 and can feature soups, meats, salads and fish, with vegetarian options and hot drinks too.

The campsites are comfortable and around 1700 hot drinks, popcorn and other snacks are served to help you recover energy.

Dinner is served around 1930, and will feature pasta, mashed potatoes, meat, fish or vegetarian options, followed by hot drinks and a pudding.

Our guides are experienced mountaineers and we typically employ one mountain guide to every three clients.

They will not just show you the way but will teach and empower you to succeed in the mountain environment.

All are UAIGM-qualified and selected for the attention to detail and, above all, safety and assessment of mountains, conditions and your capabilities.

Guide’s decisions are always final as they do so based on many years of experience of climbing among Peru’s peaks.

Cooks, mule drivers and additional staff are all from the local, nearby communities and we have worked with them for a long time.

A fantastic Inca Trail trek in Peru, guided by friendly experts and enriched with great food and seamless camping.

R. Withers, UK

A perfectly organised and thoroughly enjoyable trip through Bolivia and Peru, with friendly guides, smooth logistics, and excellent service from start to finish.

M. Good, UK

Tour information: Peru Climbing & Mountaineering Course

Top level, professional guides show you how to plan and execute a successful climbing expedition, arming participants with new climbing and preparation skills.

We finish the glacier school in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru, with a technical climb of Yanapaqcha – with our expert guides with you all the way.

By the end of the trip, you’ll have learned about the hazards that snow covered mountains present and the skills and techniques needed to conquer peaks safely.

Climbers On Summit Of Pisco Peru
Day hike to Laguna Churup (4,450m) in Cordillera Blanca, near Huaraz, Peru

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Peru Climbing & Mountaineering Course

  • Learn climbing techniques and equip yourself to tackle Andean peaks.
  • Climb an ice-clad mountain at the end of the course.
  • Superb guides ensure you learn safely, thoroughly and how to climb well in the future.
  • Wonderful challenge in a beautiful mountain area make this a truly memorable tour.
Peru Climbing & Mountaineering Course

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Practical Information

Geography of Peru

Peru is made up of 3 distinct geographical areas: the coast, the mountains and the jungle.

The costa or coastal region is a narrow ribbon of desert 2,250 km long, crossed by fertile river valleys flowing from the Andes. It takes up 11% of the country and holds more than 40% of the population.

The cold Humboldt current gives rise to a blanket of mist – the garua – which hangs above coastal cities like the capital Lima from May to November.

Heading east, you’re soon climbing above the garua and into the Andes. The sierra, or mountainous region, covers some 25% of Peru’s territory and contains 50% of the population. The sierra inhabitants are mainly Indigenous or Mestizo, and many still speak Quechua or Aymara.

The sierra contains dozens of 6,000-metre snow peaks and volcanoes, including Huascaran (6,768m) the highest mountain in the tropics. The deep valley basins contain most of the towns and arable land; the terracing and canal systems of the Incas and pre-Incas are often still used today.

The eastern Andes are heavily forested up to 3,350m and sweep down into the Amazon Basin.

Peru’s selva or jungle makes up almost two thirds of the country’s area, but holds only about 6% of the population: the only towns with significant populations are Iquitos and Pucallpa.

Introduction to Peru

Peru is the perfect holiday destination for adventure travellers that want an amazing variety of activity, geography and cultural travel experiences.

The breadth of travel experiences in Peru is breathtaking – from trekking in the Andes to Machu Picchu to the tropical jungle of the Amazon, and plenty in between.

The people of Peru make it a special destination too, with its colourful and traditional street life and friendly locals.

Kit list

Good kit is vital for every trip.

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When planning for the extreme climatic conditions encountered on high peaks in the Andes, layering is the most practical and versatile clothing system. It’s worth remembering that our clothing keeps us warm by retaining and isolating the heat we ourselves create.

To best maintain body heat, several layers of lightweight, warm and quick-drying clothing are far more efficient than one or two thick layers.

Layers should have the following qualities:

  • Breathability (able to wick away the humidity produced by sweat);
  • Isolation (able to keep in the warm air our body produces); and
  • Impermeability (able to impede the passing of wind and water).

First (base) layer: This layer wicks the sweat away from our skin, thus helping keep the body dry and warm. To this end, synthetic fabrics such as polypropylene should be used.

Mid layers: These isolating layers should also be synthetic (e.g. the known polar linings such as polartec or windblock, which are light and insulate twice as well as wool). Very important layers for retaining body heat.

Outer layer / shell: Finally, the vital layer which protects us from climatic adversities. A breathable, wind-proof and waterproof anorak, such as Goretex.

Note that it’s our extremities that stand to suffer the most, and on high Andean peaks the poorly-equipped mountaineer is at risk of becoming frostbitten. Hence, much thought should be given to deciding how best to protect hands, feet and head.

Give plenty of thought to kit selection, and try to keep weight down.

Below is a more detailed guide.

Feet

  • 2 pairs synthetic inner socks (e.g. polypropylene, thermastat, coolmax)
  • 4 pairs thick loop-stitch/wool socks for cold.
  • Trekking boots – should be well broken-in, waterproof and provide good ankle support. Given the extreme cold, plastic mountaineering boots (e.g. Koflach) are also required. These are indispensable. (see ‘TECHNICAL KIT’ below)
  • Gaiters (1 pair), heavy and large enough to fit over plastic boots.
  • Trainers/sandals, for city-wear, evenings at lower camps & river crossings.

Legs

  • Base layer leggings (1-2 pair).
  • Thick fleece leggings (or salopettes) (1 pair).
  • Goretex-type over-trousers (or salopettes) (1 pair).
  • Trekking trousers (1 pair).
  • Shorts – wear sparingly in early stages at altitude, as sun burns.

Body

  • Thermal base layer shirts (2).
  • Microfleece mid-layer shirt (1).
  • Shirt/T-shirt 1 or 2 for lower altitudes. Long-sleeved, collared shirt protects against sun.
  • Fleece jacket or similar (1).
  • Warm jacket (down or synthetic) with hood. For camp and upper slopes.
  • Waterproof Goretex-type jacket.
  • 1-2 sports bras/tanks (for women)

Head and neck

  • Broad-brimmed sunhat, essential.
  • Warm hat, fleece or wool. (N.B. Up to 30% of body heat can be lost through the head).
  • Balaclava/full-face ski mask (1)
  • Sunglasses with UV filter and nose and side-pieces.
  • 1 pair of glacier compatible sunglasses (full coverage – ask salesperson if you are not sure)
  • Scarf for cold.
  • Bandanna – to protect neck from strong sun.
  • 1 cap with visor

Hands

For the extreme cold, we recommend a 3-layer scheme:

  • 1 pair of Gore-Tex shell gloves
  • 2 pairs of removable fleece glove liners
  • Mittens allow you to keep the fingers together, and better conserve heat (though they also make it difficult to perform certain tasks).

Technical kit

  • Large backpack (80-90 litres). Comfortable and with waterproof lining or cover.
  • You will need another bag to store belongings left at hotel during expedition.
  • Daypack (at least 30 litres). Comfortable and with waterproof lining or cover.
  • Plastic mountaineering boots (you can rent these)
  • Crampons, strap-on or step-in (can be rented)
  • Walking ice axe (can be rented)
  • Pair of telescopic trekking poles. (can be rented).

Other expedition kit

  • Sleeping bag – a good warm bag (‘4-season’, minimum) and liner will be necessary for high-altitude camping.
  • Sleeping mat, a foam mat is provided
  • 2 x water bottles (2 litres each approx).
  • Pee bottle.
  • Personal first-aid kit to include: painkillers, plasters (band-aids), moleskin, anti-biotic cream, general antibiotics (ask your GP), after-bite (tiger balm), anti-diarrhoea tablets, throat lozenges, re-hydration salts & personal medication.
  • Towel & wash-kit.
  • Wet Wipes/antiseptic hand-wash cream.
  • Sunscreen (factor 40+) and lip salve.
  • Head-lamp (Plus spare bulbs and batteries x 2 at least).
  • Penknife.
  • Thermos flask (1 litre) Stainless steel.
  • Alarm clock.
  • Plastic bags ‘Zip-loc’ & tough bin liners.
  • Camera and film / memory cards (take at least twice the amount you think you will need!).
  • Book, e-book, mp3 player/ipod or other for free time.
  • Binoculars.
  • Spanish/English phrasebook.
  • Extra snacks i.e. cereal bars or favourite chocolate bars.

All other non-personal trekking and camping equipment is provided, e.g. tents, cutlery etc.

Weather in Peru

You can also read about the weather of Peru in our blog.

You can also read about the weather of Peru in our blog.

Peru is located in the southern tropics (latitudes 0º to 18º), but climate varies significantly according to season, altitude and region.

Lima & the coast

From May to October, Lima is often overcast, but with minimal precipitation. There are sunny spells, and it’s a fresh to pleasant 13-20ºC.

At the same time, inland areas and the north coast mid to high 20’s ºC.

November to April is generally warm and sunny and Lima enjoys warm temperature of 19-25ºC, with the coast averaging 22-30ºC.

The Andes

Climate depends largely on altitude. As a rule of thumb, below 2,000m climate is mild and above 2,000m warm clothing is required for evenings, nights and early mornings.

The Andean sun is very strong.

May to Oct (dry season in The Andes)

Cusco (3,300m): Average max/min temps: 22ºC /2ºC. Average 3 or 4 wet days per month.

Arequipa (2,380m): Average max/min temps: 26ºC /9ºC. Sunny more than 340 days/year with minimal precipitation.

On highland treks: Conditions are generally dry. However, at this time of year, expect a range of conditions within a single day: cold/freezing nights at camps above 4,000m, where pre-dawn temperatures can be -5ºC; warm, spring-like mornings and afternoons; and cold evenings.

Note that mountain weather can be fickle and localised, and that precipitation is not unknown in the dry season. Expect temperatures to swing between sun and shade, sheltered and exposed ground and with altitude gain and loss. A quick-setting sun means temperatures drop fast.

In the cloud forest, e.g. around Machu Picchu, daytime conditions are generally warm or hot, and evenings cool.

Nov to March/April (wet season in The Andes)

Cusco: Average max/min temps: 23ºC /6ºC. Average 13 wet days per month.

Arequipa: Average max/min temps: 25ºC /14ºC.

On highland treks: Wetter conditions, with cooler days and milder nights than dry season. Jan-Mar usually the wettest months.

The Amazon rainforest

Year-round, weather conditions are hot and humid and there is always the risk of rain.

There is a ‘dry season’ in Tambopata and Manu between May and October. The average daytime high temperature is between 25°C and 34°C and the average nighttime low is between 16°C and 22°C. Heavy downpours typically occur every few days.

Around 80% of annual average rainfall – approx 2,000 mm in Manu and Tambopata and 1,400 mm in Iquitos – occurs in the wet season Nov-April.

On rare occasions, between May and September, cold fronts from Argentina – ‘friajes’ – can sweep into southwest Amazonia and push temperatures down to 9°C. (Friajes usually last between 1 and 3 days).

A fantastic Inca Trail trek in Peru, guided by friendly experts and enriched with great food and seamless camping.

R. Withers, UK

A perfectly organised and thoroughly enjoyable trip through Bolivia and Peru, with friendly guides, smooth logistics, and excellent service from start to finish.

M. Good, UK