From: £1,501
From: $1,999
We leave from Quito after breakfast, and travel to the cable car in Quito, where we begin our ascent of the peak the easy way.
However, the walk starts soon enough and takes us to the summit of active volcano Rucu Pichincha at 4,794m/15,724ft.
Quito is nestled on the slopes of this active volcano. Our primary goal is to see how each team member responds to the altitude and to start the process of acclimatisation.
The views are outstanding, so this is a great introduction to Ecuador’s volcanoes.
Afternoon return to your Quito hotel (hotel not included).
After breakfast we head south from Quito to Machachi, the base town for the Ilinizas Ecological Reserve.
Enjoy the magnificent landscape en route on the Pan American Highway from the eastern range of the Andes to the western range along the Avenue of the Volcanoes where Cotopaxi and the Iliniza twin volcanoes are located. There are over thirty of these picturesque peaks and the glint of the permanent glaciers on some of the higher ones provide a stark contrast to the arid rocky terrain and cultivated fields.
After one and a half hours we will arrive at a remote paramo in an area called La Virgén. From here it is a 3 hour hike up to the refuge with our full backpacks. The refuge is situated at 4,700m/15,420ft. Dinner and sleep in the refuge.
We set off early, at around 05.00.
It is a steady traverse up the scree slope to the rocky ridge that leads along a slightly tricky rocky escarpment.
The route to the Iliniza Norte summit (5,120m/16,798ft) involves a non-technical scramble that should not be attempted in inclement weather.
It is a fairly short ascent and a good test to see how you are developing with the altitude in preparation for Cotopaxi.
Descend back to the parking lot and transfer to Hacienda La Estacion for a very good rest.
We have breakfast at Tambopaxi, then we set off to continue our acclimatization on the slopes of Mt. Cotopaxi.
The Cotopaxi car park is situated at 4,550m/14,924ft. From here we have a forty-five minute hike with full packs to the Jose Rivas Refuge at 4,800m/15,744ft.
After arrival at the hut, we will enjoy hot tea and a short rest before climbing school training. We head onto the glacier around 11.00 and aim to familiarise ourselves with the various climbing techniques and equipment.
Your guide will ensure you learn the necessary glacier skills and all techniques for climbing Cotopaxi.
You’ll learn and practice:
After several hours training we will return to the refuge around 17.00 and descend to the Tambopaxi Hostel.
Free morning or option of a small hike in the national park, then we return to the refuge again.
We prepare our mountain gear for a midnight departure for Cotopaxi summit day. Early dinner and early to bed, usually by 18.30.
Overnight at refuge.
Wake up at midnight. Breakfast and equipment check.
We set off up the scree slope for approx 30 minutes until the massive glacier wall looms up out of the darkness. At this point you should be able to see the lights of Quito shining surprisingly close (weather permitting).
Climb up on to the glacier itself and wind your way through the crevasse field. Snow bridges have formed across them and the path is quite obvious. You gain height quickly as the ground steepens once through the worst of the crevasses.
Onwards and upwards to a massive ice wall roughly parallel with the prominent rock band (approx. 5,600m/18,373ft) one can see from the hut. Traverse round and ascend up onto the summit dome finally gaining the top as the sun rises.
High above the clouds a whole circle of volcanoes should be clearly seen including both Illinizas, Antisana, Altar and possibly even Cayambe. The darkness of the ground below contrasts sharply with the brilliant white snow shimmering in the sun (we hope!). The climb should take 6-7hrs.
The descent should take only a few hours. You collect your overnight gear from the hut (there are lockers but padlocks are required) and after a short rest hike back down to the car park and return to Quito for a much needed rest at your hotel (hotel not included).
Note: If the itinerary has to change for any reason additional expenses will be the responsibility of the client.
The hosterias are more like hostel-type accommodation, with shared bathrooms and shared rooms. Some twin rooms may be available.
Refugios are communal climbing refuges on mountains. We may need to camp if refuges are full.
The trip is open to anyone with a positive attitude who wants to walk in a stunning and remote part of Ecuador’s Andes, and to really challenge themselves.
This is a strenuous trip and there is a big demand on the body. Those with no previous trekking experience can try the trip, although experience of hiking and camping is beneficial.
You need to have a very good level of fitness for the trip.
You must be very well acclimatised – with 5-6 days at altitude immediately before the hike, with walking at higher levels. We can help with acclimatisation programmes.
When at refuges, your breakfasts will be a mix of hot drinks, cereals, fruits and toast with jams.
Lunch, while out walking, will be either sandwiches or meat and cheese with crackers, with fruits etc available on trips from basecamps.
Meals at refuges are large and feature bread, vegetables, meats and hot drinks, rice and pasta dishes. Almost all dietary requirements can be catered for – please ask.
Summit attempts usually start in the dark, between 00.00 and 02.00, aiming to return from the summit by late morning.
We have worked for many years with our fully qualified mountain guides.
They live for climbing in the area and know the mountains extremely well. They speak English and will show you all the techniques you need in order to make a safe and successful summit attempt.
We use the same local drivers and support staff we have used for many years – the cooks, porters etc all have many years experience in the mountains.
Outstanding communication and expert planning made Andean Trails the clear choice for a perfectly organised South American adventure.
A seamless South American adventure combined the Inca Trail’s history with the Galapagos’ wildlife for an unforgettable journey.
Cotopaxi volcano climbing tours are open to those with no previous mountaineering experience, thanks to team of professional, qualified guides.
This guided trek and ice-climb is the perfect introduction to the glories of high altitude mountaineering. You must be acclimatised before embarking on this 6 days trip – that means at least 4 or 5 days at high altitudes (ie in Peru or Bolivia).
You’ll enjoy some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in the Andes throughout the trip.
You learn the ropes at our high altitude glacier school.
From: $1386 per person
Duration
4 days
Being at altitude, especially in the tropics, is usually a pleasure as it isn’t so hot, there are few insects and the air is clear.
However, when gaining altitude, air pressure drops and the amount of oxygen reaching the lungs is reduced. Although we build plenty of acclimatisation time into our itineraries, certain ill-effects are possible. Nevertheless, all of these can be minimised or prevented if care is taken.
On reaching heights above 2,500m (approx. 8,200 ft), especially when ascent has been straight from sea level, heart pounding, mild headache and shortness of breath are normal, especially on exertion.
Acute mountain sickness (AMS) is a syndrome known locally as soroche, whose symptoms can include of bad headache, dizziness and nausea).
To avoid AMS, you should:
These peaks are non-technical and are suitable for acclimatising prior to tackling one of Ecuador’s big volcanoes. We recommend several days in Quito and at least two peaks before doing our mountaineering course or attempting peaks over 5,000m / 16,404ft.
Guagua Pichincha: 4,794m / 15,728ft. An active volcano on the outskirts of Quito that last erupted in October 1999. This is a readily accessible and scenic acclimatisation climb that offers fabulous views from the crater’s rim.
Rumiñahui: 4,634m / 15,203ft. Named after Atahualpa’s general who led the fight against the Spanish conquistadors after Atahualpa was murdered. Legend has it that Rumiñahui hid a large cache of the Inca ruler’s gold in an undisclosed and still unknown location. This climb is a good acclimatisation warm-up in Cotopaxi National Park and offers magnificent views of Cotopaxi.
Imbabura: 4,630m / 15,190ft. The peak overlooking Otavalo. It is a long walk up, with a short scramble near the summit. The summit ridge offers great views of Imbabura’s impressive open crater and Lago San Pablo.
Ilinizas Norte: 5,126m / 16,818ft. An excellent acclimatisation peak with a bit of a scramble to reach the summit and magnificent views. Although it looks like a large pile of rock rubble, the rock is pretty good by Ecuadorian standards.
Pasachoa: 4,199m / 13,776ft. An ancient, severely eroded volcano inactive since the last ice age. It is 30km south of Quito. There is a short scramble from the top of the grassy ridge to the summit.
Carihuayrazo: 5,100m / 16,732ft. An ideal acclimatisation peak in conjunction with the Abraspungo trek. It is also a good place to practise basic glacier skills, use of crampons and ice-axe self-arrest. Loose rock and scree to cross above the glacier and then a scramble to reach the summit.
Cubilche: 3,800m / 12,467ft. Around 14km from Otavalo, a dormant volcano with five small craters on the top. An ideal acclimatisation peak.
Cotopaxi: 5,897m / 19,347ft. Ecuador’s second-highest peak and one of the highest active volcanoes in the world. It is a nearly perfect snow-capped volcanic cone situated 55 kilometres south of Quito in Cotopaxi National Park. We drive to just below the refuge (4,800m / 15,748ft) and from there it is a 6–8 hour climb to the summit, mostly on steep snow and ice slopes. First climbed in November 1872 by Angel Maria Escobar (Colombia) and Wilhelm Reiss (Germany). Currently active.
Cayambe: 5,790m / 18,996ft. The highest and coldest point on the equator. It is the only place on earth where the latitude is zero degrees and so is the temperature. Long thought extinct, Cayambe is now deemed to be active and is closely monitored.
Chimborazo: 6,310m / 20,702ft. Ecuador’s highest peak and one of the most impressive in all the Andes. Measured from the centre of the earth, it is the highest mountain in the world. Chimborazo is the southern-most peak in the Cordillera Occidental chain. First climbed in 1880 by Jean Antoine and Louis Carrel (Italy) and Edward Whymper (UK). Best time for climbing is during late January and early February.
Antisana: 5,758m / 18,891ft. Big, high and covered in crevasses. Wild and remote, offering some of the most interesting climbing in Ecuador. Climbing Antisana is serious and as technically difficult as Cayambe. This peak has seen relatively few ascents.
Ilinizas Sur: 5,263m / 17,267ft. A technical climb requiring crampons, ice axe, knowledge of self-arrest, glacier travel and crevasse rescue skills. The route is suffering from glacial retreat.
Landscapes vary from the drier south to the more humid north.
The Highlands, or sierra, encompass two Andean Cordilleras (the Central and Western), which run north to south through the country. Ecuador’s largest volcano is Chimborazo (6,310m) whose summit, because of its proximity to the equator, is the closest point on earth to the sun. Several of Ecuador’s volcanoes are still active, and it’s a great area for trekking.
Descending the steep, east-facing slopes of the eastern Cordillera, one passes through a transition zone comprising dense cloud forest and humid high jungle, before entering the Amazon lowlands.
This mainly primary rainforest covers a third of the country, accounts for 5% of the population and stretches across Ecuador, from its Colombian to its Peruvian borders.
The Galapagos Islands are simply unique. Lying 600 miles off the mainland, the archipelago comprises the summits of gigantic equatorial volcanoes.
The flora and fauna of the Galapagos, long separated from their continental cousins, have evolved differently. Charles Darwin used his observations there to develop his theory of Evolution.
Ecuador is the second smallest South American country, and one of the most varied.
It comprises three main geographical areas: the coast, highlands and Amazon plus is home to the Galapagos Islands.
Because of its relatively compact size, it makes a great holiday destination as you can move from highlight to highlight fairly easily and rapidly.
Good kit is vital for every trip.
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When planning for the extreme climatic conditions encountered on high peaks in the Andes, layering is the most practical and versatile clothing system. It’s worth remembering that our clothing keeps us warm by retaining and isolating the heat we ourselves create.
To best maintain body heat, several layers of lightweight, warm and quick-drying clothing are far more efficient than one or two thick layers.
Layers should have the following qualities:
First (base) layer: This layer wicks the sweat away from our skin, thus helping keep the body dry and warm. To this end, synthetic fabrics such as polypropylene should be used.
Mid layers: These isolating layers should also be synthetic (e.g. the known polar linings such as polartec or windblock, which are light and insulate twice as well as wool). Very important layers for retaining body heat.
Outer layer / shell: Finally, the vital layer which protects us from climatic adversities. A breathable, wind-proof and waterproof anorak, such as Goretex.
Note that it’s our extremities that stand to suffer the most, and on high Andean peaks the poorly-equipped mountaineer is at risk of becoming frostbitten. Hence, much thought should be given to deciding how best to protect hands, feet and head.
Give plenty of thought to kit selection, and try to keep weight down.
Below is a more detailed guide.
For the extreme cold, we recommend a 3-layer scheme:
All other non-personal trekking and camping equipment is provided, e.g. tents, cutlery etc.
Outstanding communication and expert planning made Andean Trails the clear choice for a perfectly organised South American adventure.
A seamless South American adventure combined the Inca Trail’s history with the Galapagos’ wildlife for an unforgettable journey.
