From: £1,501
From: $1,999
We leave from Quito after breakfast, and travel to the cable car in Quito, where we begin our ascent of the peak the easy way.
However, the walk starts soon enough and takes us to the summit of active volcano Rucu Pichincha at 4,794m/15.724ft.
Quito is nestled on the slopes of this active volcano. Our primary goal is to see how each team member responds to the altitude and to start the process of acclimatisation.
The views are outstanding, so this is a great introduction to Ecuador’s volcanoes. Afternoon return to your Quito hotel (we can book this for you, please ask to add additional nights pre-trip).
After breakfast we head south from Quito to Machachi, the base town for the Ilinizas Ecological Reserve.
Enjoy the magnificent landscape en route on the Pan American Highway from the eastern range of the Andes to the western range along the Avenue of the Volcanoes where Cotopaxi and the Iliniza twin volcanoes are located.
There are over thirty of these picturesque peaks and the glint of the permanent glaciers on some of the higher ones provide a stark contrast to the arid rocky terrain and cultivated fields.
After one and a half hours we will arrive at a remote paramo in an area called La Virgén. From here it is a 3-hour hike up to the refuge with our full backpacks. The refuge is situated at 4,700m/15,420ft.
Dinner and sleep in the refuge.
We set off early, at around 5am.
It is a steady traverse up the scree slope to the rocky ridge that leads along a slightly tricky rocky escarpment. The route to the Iliniza Norte summit (5,120m/16,798ft) involves a non-technical scramble that should not be attempted in inclement weather.
It is a fairly short ascent and a good test to see how you are developing with the altitude in preparation for Cotopaxi. Descend back to the parking lot and transfer to Hacienda La Estacion for a very good rest.
We leave La Estacion this morning and drive north, passing Andean villages enroute such as El Quinche with is picturesque church holding “Our Lady of Quinche”, patroness of Ecuador. Pope Francis has stopped off here before, and so will we.
We then visit the Equator line for some information and the obligatory North/South photo shoot. Onwards to Cayambe, with a lunch stop to have a typical meal before arriving at the slopes of Cayambe Volcano in the late afternoon.
Located northeast of Quito on the eastern ridge of the Andes, Cayambe is Ecuador’s third highest peak and stands at 5,790m/18,996ft, with its summit just 3km north of the Equator line.The glacier of this mountain is large and its varied terrain provides an excellent training ground for our glacier school and a rewarding summit climb.
Overnight at the Oleas – Ruales – Berge Refuge at 4,600m/15,092ft.
Early breakfast and we are on the glacier at 08.30 to acclimatise further and familiarise ourselves with the various climbing techniques as well as the equipment needed.
Our guide will show you the ropes, teach you how to use ice-axe and crampons and introduce you to techniques necessary to hike on the glacier snow, rope handling and give general safety tips.
After a morning of glacier school we are back to the refuge for delicious lunch and a rest afternoon ahead of a big climb, starting at midnight. Early dinner and early to bed, usually by 18.30.
Sleep at refuge.
Wake up at midnight for breakfast and final equipment check. We leave the refuge at 01.00 and climb with headlamps for the first four hours.
We have a straight-forward glacier climb to a saddle and then continue onto steeper and more exciting grounds. We’ll traverse around large crevasses and pass some spectacular seracs. We progress to climb 40 degree slopes with occasional steeper sections.
Some200m below the summit we will climb a 60 degree slope and from here it’s the final hour to the summit. We will have our moment of glory around 9-10am, enjoying spectacular views of surrounding mountains and the valleys below. The darkness of the ground below contrasts sharply with the brilliant white snow shimmering in the sun (we hope!).
A short rest and we return to the refuge (3-4 hours) where we have a rest and lunch before saying farewell and returning to Quito and your hotel. (We can book this for you or feel free to choose your own hotel)
Note: If the itinerary has to change for any reason additional expenses will be the responsibility of the client.
Mid range hotel in Quito, basic refuges on mountains.
If we need to camp, we use two-man mountain tents.
The trip is open to anyone with a positive attitude who wants to walk in a stunning and remote part of Ecuador’s Andes, and to really challenge themselves.
This is a strenuous trip and there is a big demand on the body. Those with no previous trekking experience can try the trip, although experience of hiking and camping is beneficial.
You need to have a very good level of fitness for the trip.
You must be very well acclimatised – with 5-6 days at altitude immediately before the hike, with walking at higher levels. We can help with acclimatisation programmes.
When at refuges, your breakfasts will be a mix of hot drinks, cereals, fruits and toast with jams.
Lunch, while out walking, will be either sandwiches or meat and cheese with crackers, with fruits etc available on trips from basecamps.
Meals at refuges are large and feature bread, vegetables, meats and hot drinks, rice and pasta dishes. Almost all dietary requirements can be catered for – please ask.
Summit attempts usually start in the dark, between 00.00 and 02.00, aiming to return from the summit by late morning.
We have worked for many years with our fully qualified mountain guides.
They live for climbing in the area and know the mountains extremely well. They speak English and will show you all the techniques you need in order to make a safe and successful summit attempt.
We use the same local drivers and support staff we have used for many years – the cooks, porters etc all have many years experience in the mountains.
A perfectly organised adventure combining varied cycling with hiking and snorkelling in the Galápagos, supported by excellent local guides, lovely hotels and great communication throughout.
A superb Ecuador journey combining Maquipucuna’s cloud forest magic with the wildlife-rich Galapagos Islands.
Learn mountaineering techniques while trekking and climbing on Ecuador’s magnificent volcanoes.
On this guided climbing holiday, you take on three stunning peaks, finishing off with a summit climb of Cayambe (5,790m/18,996ft).
No previous mountaineering experience is required for this trip, which offers an introduction to the challenges and wonders of high altitude mountaineering. You will need to be acclimatised before joining.
You will be able to enjoy some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in the Andes while taking on Cayambe.
From: $1386 per person
Duration
4 days
From: $1800 per person
Duration
6 days
These peaks are non-technical and are suitable for acclimatising prior to tackling one of Ecuador’s big volcanoes. We recommend several days in Quito and at least two peaks before doing our mountaineering course or attempting peaks over 5,000m / 16,404ft.
Guagua Pichincha: 4,794m / 15,728ft. An active volcano on the outskirts of Quito that last erupted in October 1999. This is a readily accessible and scenic acclimatisation climb that offers fabulous views from the crater’s rim.
Rumiñahui: 4,634m / 15,203ft. Named after Atahualpa’s general who led the fight against the Spanish conquistadors after Atahualpa was murdered. Legend has it that Rumiñahui hid a large cache of the Inca ruler’s gold in an undisclosed and still unknown location. This climb is a good acclimatisation warm-up in Cotopaxi National Park and offers magnificent views of Cotopaxi.
Imbabura: 4,630m / 15,190ft. The peak overlooking Otavalo. It is a long walk up, with a short scramble near the summit. The summit ridge offers great views of Imbabura’s impressive open crater and Lago San Pablo.
Ilinizas Norte: 5,126m / 16,818ft. An excellent acclimatisation peak with a bit of a scramble to reach the summit and magnificent views. Although it looks like a large pile of rock rubble, the rock is pretty good by Ecuadorian standards.
Pasachoa: 4,199m / 13,776ft. An ancient, severely eroded volcano inactive since the last ice age. It is 30km south of Quito. There is a short scramble from the top of the grassy ridge to the summit.
Carihuayrazo: 5,100m / 16,732ft. An ideal acclimatisation peak in conjunction with the Abraspungo trek. It is also a good place to practise basic glacier skills, use of crampons and ice-axe self-arrest. Loose rock and scree to cross above the glacier and then a scramble to reach the summit.
Cubilche: 3,800m / 12,467ft. Around 14km from Otavalo, a dormant volcano with five small craters on the top. An ideal acclimatisation peak.
Cotopaxi: 5,897m / 19,347ft. Ecuador’s second-highest peak and one of the highest active volcanoes in the world. It is a nearly perfect snow-capped volcanic cone situated 55 kilometres south of Quito in Cotopaxi National Park. We drive to just below the refuge (4,800m / 15,748ft) and from there it is a 6–8 hour climb to the summit, mostly on steep snow and ice slopes. First climbed in November 1872 by Angel Maria Escobar (Colombia) and Wilhelm Reiss (Germany). Currently active.
Cayambe: 5,790m / 18,996ft. The highest and coldest point on the equator. It is the only place on earth where the latitude is zero degrees and so is the temperature. Long thought extinct, Cayambe is now deemed to be active and is closely monitored.
Chimborazo: 6,310m / 20,702ft. Ecuador’s highest peak and one of the most impressive in all the Andes. Measured from the centre of the earth, it is the highest mountain in the world. Chimborazo is the southern-most peak in the Cordillera Occidental chain. First climbed in 1880 by Jean Antoine and Louis Carrel (Italy) and Edward Whymper (UK). Best time for climbing is during late January and early February.
Antisana: 5,758m / 18,891ft. Big, high and covered in crevasses. Wild and remote, offering some of the most interesting climbing in Ecuador. Climbing Antisana is serious and as technically difficult as Cayambe. This peak has seen relatively few ascents.
Ilinizas Sur: 5,263m / 17,267ft. A technical climb requiring crampons, ice axe, knowledge of self-arrest, glacier travel and crevasse rescue skills. The route is suffering from glacial retreat.
Ecuador is the second smallest South American country, and one of the most varied.
It comprises three main geographical areas: the coast, highlands and Amazon plus is home to the Galapagos Islands.
Because of its relatively compact size, it makes a great holiday destination as you can move from highlight to highlight fairly easily and rapidly.
Good kit is vital for every trip.
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When planning for the extreme climatic conditions encountered on high peaks in the Andes, layering is the most practical and versatile clothing system. It’s worth remembering that our clothing keeps us warm by retaining and isolating the heat we ourselves create.
To best maintain body heat, several layers of lightweight, warm and quick-drying clothing are far more efficient than one or two thick layers.
Layers should have the following qualities:
First (base) layer: This layer wicks the sweat away from our skin, thus helping keep the body dry and warm. To this end, synthetic fabrics such as polypropylene should be used.
Mid layers: These isolating layers should also be synthetic (e.g. the known polar linings such as polartec or windblock, which are light and insulate twice as well as wool). Very important layers for retaining body heat.
Outer layer / shell: Finally, the vital layer which protects us from climatic adversities. A breathable, wind-proof and waterproof anorak, such as Goretex.
Note that it’s our extremities that stand to suffer the most, and on high Andean peaks the poorly-equipped mountaineer is at risk of becoming frostbitten. Hence, much thought should be given to deciding how best to protect hands, feet and head.
Give plenty of thought to kit selection, and try to keep weight down.
Below is a more detailed guide.
For the extreme cold, we recommend a 3-layer scheme:
All other non-personal trekking and camping equipment is provided, e.g. tents, cutlery etc.
We strongly suggest that everyone planning to travel to Ecuador visits their local doctor/travel clinic prior to departure for the latest vaccination information.
For people travelling to the Amazon/coast and regions below 1,500m (excluding Galapagos, which is malaria free):
Ecuador lies between latitudes 4º south and 2º north. Overall, climate varies according to time of year, altitude and region.
In the Ecuadorian highlands, there is little temperature variation by season as temperature depends largely on altitude.
In Quito, shade temperatures range from 6 to 10ºC in the morning and from 19 to 23ºC in the afternoon, with cool nights. In the lower basins between mountains, it gets significantly warmer.
Rainfall depends on whether an area lies closer to the eastern or western Andes. To the west, June-Sept is the dry period and Oct-May the wet (with often a short, dry spell in Dec or Jan).
The best period to visit Quito and trek and climb volcanoes such as Cotopaxi is the west Andean dry season of June-Sept and Dec/Jan. This is also Ecuador’s high season. During the Oct-May wet season, most rainfall is in the afternoons.
To the east, Oct to Feb are dry and Mar-Sept are wet. Overall, the southern highlands are drier than the northern highlands.
On the Pacific coast, rainfall becomes less from north to south. The coast can be enjoyed year-round, although from June-Sept mornings are often grey with the garua mists.
Jan-May is the hottest and rainiest time of year.
In Ecuador’s Amazonian region, rain can fall at any time, but Dec-March is usually the driest season and Mar-Sept is usually the wettest period.
Galapagos can be visited at any time of year.
The warm season is Jan-Jun, bringing calm, warm waters (around 70°F) and sunny days (72-9°F or 22-32°C), February and March being the hottest and sunniest months with blue skies and sunshine.
The islands receive slightly more rainfall during these months, occasional heavy bursts in the afternoon. Great for snorkelling and you can spend a lot of time in the water without wetsuits, with great, clear waters.
The dry ‘garua’ season is Jun-Dec an it’s a great time for marine life. August and September are the coolest when you may need a jacket in the evenings and the sea can be choppy and temperature drops around 15-24ºC on average.
There can be mist on the islands in the mornings (garua) which usually burns off by midday leaving overcast skies or a sunny afternoon.
Sea temperatures may drop to 60°F- 72°F (15-22°C) during this time and snorkellers will want a wet suit for prolonged periods in the sea.
A perfectly organised adventure combining varied cycling with hiking and snorkelling in the Galápagos, supported by excellent local guides, lovely hotels and great communication throughout.
A superb Ecuador journey combining Maquipucuna’s cloud forest magic with the wildlife-rich Galapagos Islands.
