Lake Titicaca: Stay overnight on Amantani Island
Gill takes us onto the waters of Peru’s famous Lake Titicaca and describes her overnight stay with a local family on Amantani Island.
She writes:
“Lake Titicaca in Peru is the highest of the world’s lakes. Perched 3,810 metres above sea level on a plateau in the high Andes, it straddles the border of Bolivia and Peru. It offers not only natural beauty but also glimpses into the lives of those who call its islands home.
Puno, the main Peruvian town on the lake’s shore, is not one of the region’s main attractions, but it’s the gateway to exploring the lake.
Getting there is easy, with flights to nearby Juliaca or scenic bus rides from Cusco, Arequipa, or the Colca Valley.
One of the best ways to experience and make the most of your visit to Lake Titicaca is to take a two-day, one-night tour that includes a homestay on one of the islands. My visit included an overnight stay on Amantani Island, arranged as part of a shared tour—a unique way to immerse yourself in island life and connect with local people.
Lake Titicaca’s Floating Uros islands
My adventure started early, with a pick-up from my hotel and a short drive to Puno port. We boarded a narrow, covered motorboat and were soon off to our first stop: the famous floating Uros Islands.
The Uros Islands are a series of man-made totora reed islands only 5km (3 miles) from Puno. The tour includes a stop at one of these, where you can walk on the soft, springy reeds and learn about the locals’ ingenious way of life.
Opinion is divided on this part of the tour—some find it too “touristy,” while others believe that tourism helps sustain the islanders’ unique culture. Authentic or not, the history of these floating islands is fascinating.
Read Tom’s blog about sleeping on the floating islands.
Onward to Amantani Island
After our stop at Uros, we continued to Amantani Island, home to fewer than 800 families, most of whom earn a living through farming, textiles, and ceramics.
The island is run as a cooperative and each host family provides similar wholesome meals to their guests: lunch and dinner on arrival day and breakfast on departure day.
On arrival, we were introduced to our hosts, who guided us to our home for the night. This proved to be a longer uphill hike than I’d expected!
At the house, I was shown to my room, which was upstairs and accessed by an external staircase and outdoor corridor. My room was simple but cheerful. There was no heating, but there were plenty of cosy blankets to ward off the evening chill.
Bathroom facilities were downstairs and outside the homestead area—an outdoor hut with bucket flushing—but part of the island’s authentic, off-grid experience. However, there are bedpans under the beds if you don’t fancy negotiating the stairs at night.
After settling in, we gathered in the family’s dining area, where our young host introduced us to his wife, their small daughter, and his elderly in-laws. We were served a hearty vegetarian lunch and made to feel very welcome.
After lunch, we met with the rest of our group for a hike up to “Pachatata,” the island’s highest point. From there, we were able to sit and watch the sun go down.
Dancing with the Locals
We had an hour of downtime before being served another tasty vegetarian meal with our host family, followed by a lively evening with the local people.
Dressed in traditional clothing—ponchos and woolly hats for the men and skirts and embroidered tops for the women—we headed to the community hall, where live music and dancing awaited. We had a ball!
Events like these can feel staged, but here, the enthusiasm felt genuine, and the local people and visitors alike shared the joy of the evening.
That night, I slept like a log under my mountain of blankets!
Taquile Island and Farewell
The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we set sail for Taquile Island, another gem of Lake Titicaca. We hopped off our boat at the dock and set off uphill into the town.
The climb up to the town offers great views, and at the top, we were given time to wander around the little community or hike even higher for panoramic views.
Lunch in the main square was a treat—fresh fish or an omelette—and an interesting talk on local customs.
As we descended the long, steep staircase back to the boat, I marvelled at the elderly locals deftly passing by, carrying heavy baskets with ease.
By mid-afternoon, we were back in Puno.
Reflecting on the experience, I realised how worthwhile it was—not just for the chance to unplug from the world, but also for the support to the communities we visited. Each tour directly benefits local cooperatives, preserving a way of life that thrives off a delicate balance of tradition and tourism.
